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8cr13mov Vs. 9 other steels: Which is the best for knives?


Is 8Cr13MoV Good Knife Steel?

If you are a knife enthusiast looking for an easy to maintain, cost-effective, and durable knife steel at an affordable price, you will be pleasantly surprised by the performance of 8cr13mov steel. Despite it being a low-end stainless steel it is actually quite impressive.

This China produced steel is commonly used in kitchen knives and budget knives and is utilized by knife manufacturers like A.G. Russell Knives, CRKT,  and Kershaw. For its price point, 8cr13mov steel delivers exceptional results in regards to its performance as a steel and will leave you quite impressed. If you find yourself interested in using 8cr13mov steel, take a look below for more information before passing it up. 

What is 8cr13mov Steel?

8cr13mov steel is a type of stainless steel that is commonly used in the manufacture of knives. It is a medium-carbon steel that contains a high level of chromium, which gives it good corrosion resistance and edge retention properties. It is also relatively easy to sharpen, making it a popular choice for everyday carry knives and other utilitarian tools. In terms of its performance, 8cr13mov steel is generally considered to be a good, budget-friendly option for knife-making. It is not as tough or durable as some of the higher-end steels, but it can still hold a decent edge and is resistant to rust and corrosion.

Best Knife Steel

8cr13mov Steel Composition

This China-made alloy has the following composite materials:

  • 0.25% Vanadium: This is used to help increase the steel’s strength and wear resistance.
  • 14.50% Chromium: Used to increase tensile strength, corrosion resistance, and wear resistance.
  • 0.40% Sulfur: This is added to improve the steel’s machinability.
  • 0.8% Carbon:  Increases the steel’s hardness and resistance to both corrosion and wear.
  • 1% Manganese: Helps to increase the steel’s hardness.
  • 0.03% Silicon: The addition of this improves the steel’s strength.
  • 0.30% Molybdenum: Used to increase the steel’s strength and its machinability.
  • 0.04% Phosphorus: Improves the steel’s strength.
  • 0.6% Nickel: The addition of this improves toughness.

What is 8cr13mov Steel properties?

As far as low-grade stainless steel goes, 8cr13mov steel gives a good bang for its buck when it comes to its overall performance. As one of the more affordable stainless steel options it has the following beneficial properties:

Good Hardness– The high carbon content in 8cr13mov steel contributes to its increased hardness. The addition of the Vanadium increases the 8cr13mov steel’s ability to harden during the tempering stage and aids it in reaching a Rockwell hardness of up to 62 HRC.

Great Edge Retention- For being one of the cheaper and more affordable steels to use in the making of an array of knives, 8cr13mov has an impressive edge retention. This is because of the high amount of chromium in it as it aids in the edge retention qualities of the steel. 

Good Toughness– The 8cr13mov steel’s carbon, chromium, nickel, phosphorous, and vanadium components make it a rather durable choice of steel. Each of these elements increases the steel’s wear resistance and toughness. As such, it can take a substantial amount of use before it chips.

Good Corrosion Resistance– The high level of chromium in this China-produced steel enhances its resistance to corrosion. Its corrosion resistance is further compounded by the addition of Molybdenum. Molybdenum is commonly added to stainless steel to prevent corrosion. 

Unfortunately, due to 8cr13mov steel’s high carbon and high chromium composition, it is a poor choice of steel for welding purposes. 

8Cr13MoV Steel 1

Is 8Cr13MoV Good Knife Steel?

8cr13mov steel is one of the best steel for knives. In fact, it is commonly used by manufacturers like A.G. Russell Knives, CRKT, Kershaw. As knife steel, the 8cr13mov holds up well against daily use.

It has established a rather good name for itself among knife enthusiasts because of its affordable price, its edge retention, and ease of sharpening. This and the multiple corrosive and wear-resistant properties are all highlights to this low-end stainless steel that many steel and knife experts agree performs better than one would expect it to. 

If you are shopping on a budget, the 8cr13mov is a great candidate to get the most out of your dollar to produce a durable knife.

Will 8cr13mov Steel Rust?

It is important to remember that all steel is prone to rust and corrosion if it is not properly maintained. To prevent rust and corrosion on 8cr13mov steel, it is essential to keep the blade clean, dry, and well-oiled. This will help to prevent moisture from accumulating on the blade and causing it to rust. While 8cr13mov steel is generally resistant to rust and corrosion, proper care is still necessary to ensure the longevity of your knife. By following proper maintenance procedures, you can help to extend the lifespan of your 8cr13mov steel knife and keep it in good condition.

How Strong is 8cr13mov Steel?   

8cr13mov is a type of stainless steel that is known for its corrosion resistance and ability to retain an edge. It is a medium-carbon steel with a Rockwell hardness rating of around 56-58, which is considered to be on the lower end for knife steels. While it may not be as strong as some higher-end options, 8cr13mov is still a relatively strong steel that can withstand everyday use. It is also an affordable choice for those seeking a steel that can maintain a sharp edge and resist rust and corrosion.

Is it easy to sharpen 8cr13mov Steel Blades?

8cr13mov steel is relatively easy to sharpen, making it a popular choice for everyday carry knives and other utilitarian tools. It has good edge retention properties and is generally considered to be a good, budget-friendly option for those who are looking for a steel that is easy to sharpen and maintain. While it may not be as easy to sharpen as some of the softer steels, it is still relatively easy to work with and can be sharpened to a fine edge with the right equipment and technique.

8cr13mov Steel: 9 Comparisons to Carefully Consider

8cr13mov Vs D20

8cr13mov Vs D20

When looking at 8cr13mov steel compared to D20 steel, 8cr13mov steel has better corrosion resistance and sharpness than D20 steel. However, if you are prioritizing toughness and edge retention then D20 would be the steel to go with. 


8cr13mov Vs 440C

Comparison Points8cr13mov440c
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon 
0.30%Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
0.95-1.2% Carbon
1% Manganese
1% Silicon
18% Chromium
0.75% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorous
0.03% Sulfur
Toughness 3/104/10
Edge Retention3/104/10
Corrosion Resistance4/104.5/10
Sharpness5/104/10

The 440C steel has a higher carbon and chromium content in it than the 8cr13mov. This gives it an advantage in toughness. As I mention in my article on 440 steel, you won’t need to worry as much over corrosion or edge retention compared to the 8cr13mov. 


8cr13mov Vs Aus-8

Comparison Points8cr13movAus-8
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
0.75% Carbon
14.5% Chromium
0.5%Manganese
0.5% Nickel
0.04 Phosphorus
1% Silicon
0.3% Molybdenum
0.03% Sulfur
0.25% Vanadium
Toughness 3/103/10
Edge Retention3/104/10
Corrosion Resistance4/105/10
Sharpness5/103/10

When comparing 8cr13mov steel to Aus-8 steel, Aus-8 steel has a slight advantage. Aus-8 steel is a Japanese made steel considered to be the most similar in properties but performs one step up from the 8cr13mov steel. Slightly more expensive than the 8cr13mov, it offers better edge retention and corrosion retention.   


8cr13mov Vs Vg10

Comparison Points8cr13movVg10
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon 
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
1% Carbon
15.5 %Chromium
1% Molybdenum
0.2% Vanadium
1.5% Cobalt
0.5% Manganese    
Toughness 3/102/10
Edge Retention3/104/10
Corrosion Resistance4/105/10
Sharpness5/104/10

The Vg10 steel has slightly better edge retention and corrosion resistance than 8cr13mov steel. However, 8cr13mov has better toughness and sharpness. Depending on what properties you hold more important, it can go either way.


8cr13mov Vs 7cr17mov 

Comparison Points8cr13mov7cr17mov
            Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
0.7% Carbon
18% Chromium 
1% Manganese 
0.6% Nickel 
0.04% Phosphorus 
0.03% Sulfur 
0.75% Molybdenum
1% Silicon
0.1-0.2% Vanadium
Toughness 3/102/10
Edge Retention3/103.5/10
Corrosion Resistance4/105/10
Sharpness5/105/10

Both 8cr13mov and 7cr17mov are Chinese made stainless steel that can be bought at an affordable price. For comparison purposes, they are pretty similar, with the 8cr13mov having a slight advantage if you prioritize edge retention over corrosion resistance. 


8cr13mov Vs 420hc

Comparison Points8cr13mov420hc
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon 
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
Carbon 0.45%
Manganese 0.8%
Chromium 13%
Silicon 0.8%
Nickel 0.5%
Toughness 3/104/10
Edge Retention3/103/10
Corrosion Resistance4/104/10
Sharpness5/105/10

Both 8cr13mov and the 420hc steel are budget-priced steels with the 420hc being a little tougher than the 8cr13mov. 


8cr13mov Vs S30cv

Comparison Points8cr13movS30cv
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
1.45% Carbon
14% Chromium
2% Molybdenum
4% Vanadium
Toughness 3/103/10
Edge Retention3/104/10
Corrosion Resistance4/105/10
Sharpness5/105/10

When comparing S30cv steel to 8cr13mov, S30cv steel scores higher in wear and corrosion resistance.


8cr13mov Vs 20cv

Comparison Points8cr13mov20cv
Composite Materials0.25% Vanadium
14.50% Chromium
0.40% Sulfur
0.8% Carbon
1% Manganese
0.03% Silicon
0.30% Molybdenum
0.04% Phosphorus
0.6% Nickel
Carbon 1.9%
Chromium 20%
Vanadium 4.0%
Molybdenum 1.0%
Tungsten 0.6%
Toughness 3/102/10
Edge Retention3/108/10
Corrosion Resistance4/106/10
Sharpness5/103/10

For comparing these two steels, toughness and sharpness would have to go to 8cv13mov steel. However, 20cv steel has exceptional edge retention. It also has very good corrosion resistance. 


What Are The Best 8cr13mov Knife Steel in the Market

Last update on 2025-10-26 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Final Words…

The praise 8cr13mov steel gets for its edge retention alone is worth noting if you’re even the slightest bit interested in how it performs. Its popularity as a knife steel has grown in recent years as it has established a good reputation with how well it retains its edge, and how well a steel can hold its edge is an important factor for many knife enthusiasts.

Between 8cr13mov steel having impressive edge retention, the ease of sharpening it makes this a smart buy. As long as you treat your knife with some tender love and care you won’t have to worry about corrosion thanks to the high level of chromium.

As many knife experts and enthusiasts agree, the 8cr13mov steel may not be top of the line stainless steel but you will definitely get your money’s worth with it. Its high carbon and high chromium content with the addition of vanadium make it a reliable and durable steel able to take on cuts both inside the kitchen and out hunting on a daily basis.

That is why I would strongly encourage knife enthusiasts not to pass it up just for being on the cheap side, but to instead give it a try and welcome the opportunity to be surprised.

Wakizashi Sword: 7 Important Answers for Beginners


The wakizashi is a Japanese short-sword and relative of the infamous katana. While not as well-known as the katana, the wakizashi is a blade rich in history and was only wielded alongside the katana by the samurai class back in feudal Japan.

The wakizashi is a sword equally renowned for its beauty, and craftsmanship as well as its terrifyingly sharp edge designed to cut straight through any enemies that dared face it, with a tip sharp enough to run armored enemies straight through.

The wakizashi was popular amongst the samurai as an indoor weapon, as longer swords such as katana and tachi are far too long and inconvenient for close up combat. Meanwhile, a dagger or tantō are far too small to be effective in a dual. Making the wakizashi ideal.

The wakizashi came into the samurai world as early as the 15th century in feudal Japan and was the most common secondary sword only able to be worn by the elite class of Japan’s society – the samurai.

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While the blade itself at first glance appears to be nothing more than a smaller version of the renowned katana, they are in fact 2 different blades entirely. On top of their purpose and the status they brought by owning one, they could be forged differently as well.

Sword making has been a practice in Japan for centuries, and the classification of a sword is significant to the time it was created. The wakizashi is a member of the Kotō otherwise known as old swords. These were forged between 900–1596.

The wakizashi is a unique sword, though having many similar relatives when compared to other nihontō. Though a secondary sword a skilled samurai could be just as threatening with a wakizashi as he was with a katana. Interested in more about this amazing sword?

Keep reading.

What is the Wakizashi Made of?

The strong material used to make a wakizashi swords is high carbon steel. Usually, 1045 steel, 1065 steel, or 1095 steel. The process of Japanese swordsmithing is a skill that has been passed down for centuries and is considered very sacred.

The Wakizashi is may look like simply a piece of metal, but there are many crucial steps that must be completed over the course of days or even weeks to create these flawless blades.

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Wakizashi (and katana alike) are forged with high carbon steel known as Tamahagane, or jewel steel. A substance created through iron sand that is used specifically for the practice of Japanese swordsmithing and production of a few miscellaneous tools.

Japan has been renowned for centuries for it’s sword making skills, involving a process that melts down and folds the steel over itself over and over and constantly forging and re-forging in order to eliminate any impurities in the steel to ensure the end result is perfect.

This constant folding of steel not only helps thicken the layers to strengthen the sword’s edge and overall durability but adds to the beauty of the steel once the sword is allowed to cool in a faster way.

The blade is forged through this constant folding of soft steel and hard steel that can create over 1 million individual layers of steel in the blade. The blade is then clay-tempered in order to cool at a different rate than the rest of the sword.

This part of the hardening process is what creates the hamon of the blade. Hamon literally translates to blade pattern, which is visible and adds a remarkable beauty to the blade. This pattern is unique to each hand-made sword, thus making every sword unique.

Once the blade has been forged the sword needs to be properly assembled. The sword has a habaki which is a small piece of metal that has 2 main functions: locking in the blades guard, known as a tsuba, and helping the sword lock into its saya or scabbard.

The tsuba itself not only serves to add beauty to the sword and has artistic aesthetic features, but protects the user’s hand, crucial for a wakizashi which is a single-handed weapon.

The tsuba is placed in between two small plates meant to tighten or loosen the blades fitting. Usually made of bronze or iron known as the seppa. The seppa can also be silver or gold to add a more elegant look to the blade, increasing its beauty.

The tsuba is then connected to the tsuka, or the handle of the blade by the fuchi — a small metal plate that signifies the end of the starting point of the wrapping that is put around the handle. Usually matching with the kashira on the very end of the handle.

The handle is secured and kept tight with the help of the menuki which also helps to ensure that the blade will be fixed in its position and keeps it tight and secure in it’s place and is covered with Ito wrap to make wielding the sword more comfortable.

The wakizashi – like the katana, is an incredibly complicated sword to make and has countless components that need to all come together in perfect harmony in order to forge the perfect sword.

How Long is a Wakizashi Sword?

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The range of length of the wakizashi sword can vary based upon whom the sword was forged. The range of the blade of the wakizashi is between 1 to 2 feet in length or 30-60 centimeters.

There are varying types of wakizashi, such as the ō-wakizashi which was similar in length to the katana. Alternatively, there was the kō-wakizashi which was similar in size to the tantō.

What is the Purpose of a Wakizashi?

The wakizashi goes back as far as the 15th century and was primarily used as a secondary weapon for the samurai. In the event, a samurai had been disarmed or his katana broke, the wakizashi was available to be used as a backup.

In addition, the wakizashi was utilized for close-quarters combat and in situations where a long sword would be less advantageous. It was also used to finish off a fallen enemy by beheading him.

On occasion, it was the weapon of choice to use in the practice of ceremonial suicide, also known as seppuku.

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The wakizashi was also symbolic to a samurai. Wakizashi was never carried alone, as it was part of the Daishō, which literally translates to big-little, indicating the difference of the length of the katana and wakizashi – which was always carried as a pair.

As a part of the samurai class, one must show that they are truly part of the elite, and this was usually displayed with vast amounts of symbolism. Daishō being a large part of it. Such was the way of life for a samurai in feudal Japan.

Therefore, daishō was extremely important to samurai and they were required to carry 2 weapons on them at all times. One long sword, which were always the primary weapon, and one short sword that were to be used as a backup.

When it comes to daishō, the wakizashi was not the only option for a samurai to use as a secondary weapon. There was also the tantō blade, a smaller version of a wakizashi. The different pairings of swords were significant to the time period in Japan’s history.

What is the Difference Between Wakizashi & Kodachi?

To understand the differences between the wakizashi and the kodachi, one must first know what a kodachi even is in the first place. A kodachi is a smaller version of a tachi, another type of nihontō, or a traditional Japanese samurai sword.

The kodachi blade resembles that of its larger cousin, the tachi, which was a legendary blade known for its large curve.

Kodachi are handled in a similar fashion to that of a wakizashi but are mounted differently than the wakizashi. Moreover, the kodachi is a blade that must always be under 60 centimeters in length to be considered a kodachi, while a wakizashi can be 60 centimeters.

The wakizashi has a lot more freedom and room for variation in its length and design, meanwhile if the length of a kodachi deviates by more than a centimeter it will not be considered a true kodachi.

These historical blades differ in more than just appearance, as they are known for their usages in completely different time periods. The kodachi emerged as early as the 10th century and was used as a primary sword, rather than a secondary sword.

The reason for this being that 60 centimeters was considered too long to be a short sword, so it was able to be the shortest long-sword and was usually paired with a tantō dagger.

A samurai wielding a kodachi and tantō would be at a disadvantage facing an opponent wielding a katana and wakizashi, due to the larger length of both, the katana and wakizashi in comparison to the kodachi and tantō.

The kodachi were also made for any given samurai, while the wakizashi was specifically constructed for their individual wielder. Taking into account the wielder’s height, weight, and even if they were right or left-handed.

Needless to say, the wakizashi was a much more personalized weapon when it was in use back in feudal Japan.

What is the Difference Between the Wakizashi & Katana?

The katana and the wakizashi are both very similar blades in many ways, but also have several differences – especially regarding how they were viewed by the nobleman and samurai alike.

It is said that when a samurai was to be born, a katana was brought into the room to honor his welcome into the world. When the samurai died, his sword was put alongside with him. It was believed that even in death the katana could help a swordsman protect his nobleman.

How Much Does a Katana Weigh?

These swords were so magnificent that they were viewed as being just as important as the samurai who wielded them. This however, was an unheard level of praise and glory for the wakizashi, mainly seen as nothing more than the katana’s shadow.

Like the kodachi and wakizashi, the katana and wakizashi have many similarities but also are quite different. The katana has several more obvious differences, such as length – the blade of a katana is generally over 60 centimeters in length.

It is important to note that the katana is a two-handed weapon, therefore further increasing the size of the overall sword. On average, a katana as a whole is about 100-110 centimeters. Meanwhile, wakizashi were shorter due to being single-handed.

On top of being the larger sword, the katana is also the older sword. There are reports dating back to the Kamakura period in feudal Japan, which was between 1185-1333 CE about the existence of the katana. The katana was designed in this period specifically to adapt to an ongoing threat to Japan at the time, which was enemies with stronger armor.

Unlike the tachi and kodachi, the katana and wakizashi model after one another with their modest curvature in the blade, while the tachi and kodachi had a significant amount of curvature.

The katana and the wakizashi were carried on the waist of the samurai, with the blade side facing up so that they could be used to strike an opponent with the same motion used to draw their blade.

However, the katana would always be on top, as it was the primary weapon and used in almost all combat situations, as opposed to the wakizashi, seen as a last resort for a samurai who was no longer able to use their katana.

The katana was a symbol of power, integrity, honor, and skill, and the wakizashi was seen almost as being used only by samurai who failed to finish their opponent with their main weapon.

What is the Difference Between Wakizashi & Tanto?

The tantō is the smallest level of nihontō, being about 7 inches in length or 20 centimeters. Technically speaking, a nihontō with a blade longer than 15 centimeters and under 30 centimeters could be considered a tantō.

Unlike the wakizashi, which is clearly a short sword, nowhere near small enough to be considered anything less — the tantō is more of a dagger. Though it functions much like a wakizashi, being that it is a secondary weapon used for close-quarter combat.  

A huge difference between the tantō and the wakizashi is that not only the samurai class could wield them. While swords like katana, wakizashi, tachi, and other long swords and most short swords were strictly for samurai, tantō could be wielded by anyone.

While technically a sword, the tantō was used as a knife. In combat, it could be used for swift assassinations, or surprise attacks since it was easy to conceal due to its small size. An advantage that larger weapons like the wakizashi and katana don’t have.

Furthermore, being small and light in weight, one could slash and stab relentlessly at a great speed and inflict severe, if not fatal injuries with ease. As the katana and wakizashi are well known for their sharpness, the tantō – while small – is certainly no ordinary blade.

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Another difference between the 2 blades would be their pairing. As mentioned before all samurai carried 2 blades with them at all times when they were in active duty. However, these were not fixed pairings.

Traditionally, wakizashi were placed together with katana, while tantō were placed with tachi.

This was to have a form of balance – as the art of being a samurai was not only based on physical strength and skills with a sword — but had a lot of spiritual and mental implications embedded in its philosophies.

The wakizashi and katana were similar in size and made an elegant pair, meanwhile the tachi — long and curved, and the tantō — small and much straighter, balanced each other out.

While the tantō may be the smaller blade, it’s the older blade when compared to the wakizashi. There is evidence that tantō have been used as far back as the Heian period which was between 794-1185 CE.

While uncommon, tantō could also be a literal double-edged sword. Mostly all nihontō were single edged, with a sharp blade for slicing, and a strong dull side for defense, but the tantō is an exception. Though rare, certain tantō have 2 asymmetrical bladed sides.

What Is The Best Wakizashi Swords?

Last update on 2025-11-10 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Final Words

In conclusion, the wakizashi is often overshadowed by the katana and may not be as well known as other swords such as the tachi, tantō, uchigatana, etc. But this sword has been a part of Japanese culture and history for centuries and was a necessary weapon to the samurai.

What it lacks for in size is more than made up for by its striking beauty, razor-sharp edge, fascinating history, and the effort put forth to create such a weapon in the first place. A weapon that continues to be a beautiful part of Japanese culture, and a reminder of Japan’s rich history.

How To Use a Whetstone? All You Need To Know About Whetstones


Every collector needs two things: Knives and whetstones.

Knives we all know, obsess over and adore. Whetstones, on the other hand, remain a mystery to a large chunk of newcomers.

Yes, they keep your knives sharp… but what’s the difference between a whetstone and a water stone?

How do you read and determine the right grit size?

What is the proper sharpening technique?

What is the purpose of flattening a whetstone?

If you don’t know the answer to anyone of these questions, you’ve come to the right place. We’re going to look at these questions (and more!) in-depth, and give you all you need to know about whetstones.

What are Whetstones?

Whetstones, sharpening stones, water stones, oil stones.

What’s the difference between these? Is there any difference at all? Well, no. At least for whetstones and sharpening stones.

You see, the term “whet” means “to sharpen.” Therefore, “whetstone” is just another way of saying “sharpening stone.” Any sharpening stone you see, you can just as well call it a whetstone – they are the same thing.

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Whet does not mean wet. Many people assume that whetstones need to be washed prior to use because of this name. While many whetstones do need liquid, there are also dry whetstones.

What about water stones and oil stones?

These refer to the type of liquid needed to lubricate the stone. A whetstone can be a water stone or an oil stone. Check out my article on the differences between these two here.

To Sum It Up:

Whetstone = Sharpening Stone

Water Stone and Oil Stone = Types of Whetstones

Aside from that, there are other differences between whetstones. These are the material they use and their grit size.

What are Whetstones Made of?

Ever since knives were invented, people have used stones to keep them sharp. Back then, they didn’t have a lot of options – they went with anything that could scratch their blades.

Nowadays, we have a plethora of great choices. You can choose between Arkansas stones, India stones, diamond stones, and dozens more.

There are two types of whetstones: natural and synthetic.

Carborundum Stones

Natural Whetstones

As you can probably guess, natural stones are found in nature.

They’re more difficult to “harvest”, they’re not as widespread as synthetic stones, they’re more expensive, and their grain can (sometimes) be inconsistent.

Yet they’re very popular.

What I love about natural stones though is their feel. There’s something about sharpening with a stone found in nature – not a manufactured one – that’s very appealing.

Novaculite is the most common material for these. It’s a colorful sedimentary rock that’s found in the mountains of Arkansas – which is where we get Arkansas stones.

You may have also heard of Belgian coticules (known for its spessartine) or Belgian blue (limestone) whetstones. These two are highly-popular Ardenne stones that are known for their beauty and fine grit (more on grit soon). Unfortunately, these stones are not as abundant as they used to be.

Then there are the Japanese whetstones.

There’s something mystical surrounding Japanese knives – which carries to their sharpening stones as well.

Because of the country’s geology, they have a very special type of stone. It’s a sedimentary rock similar to novaculite, only it is softer and clay-like.

This rock is used to create some of the finest grit whetstones on earth. These are the stones that the Samurai would use to keep their katanas razor-sharp.

Synthetic Whetstones

The word “synthetic” often stirs up images of plastics and fakes in people’s minds. When it comes to whetstones, however, this only means “man-made.”

The materials used to make synthetic whetstones are also found in nature. The only difference is that they need to be manufactured first.

Silicon carbide and aluminum oxide are the most common materials used for synthetic whetstones.

Both of these materials can get really hard – a lot harder than natural stones. They grind steel fast and can give even the dullest blade an edge – especially silicon carbide.

Synthetic stones are always consistent. Since they’re man-made, you can expect even grains all throughout.

Plus, they’re a lot cheaper. Synthetics don’t have the appeal of natural stones, but if you’re talking performance and practicality, they are way better.

Another type of synthetic whetstone is the diamond stone.

Aren’t diamonds natural?

Well, yes, but not these ones.

Diamond stones are made from manufactured diamonds. Small diamond crystals are placed on a flat metal plate for the ultimate hardness. You won’t find a whetstone that can sharpen as fast as these.

These stones are the most expensive type you can get. That said, they also last the longest. Since nothing is harder than diamonds, you’ll almost never have to flatten your stone (more on flattening soon!).

What are Whetstone Grit Sizes?

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Knowing the material of your whetstone is important. But it’s even more important to know its grit size.

You’ve probably heard of 320-grit stones, 1,000-grit stones, or maybe even 12,000-grit stones. What do these all mean?

Grit size is a measurement of how coarse or fine your whetstone is. The higher the grit size, the finer the whetstone – the less harsh it will be on your blade.

What do I mean by harsh?

Let’s say you have a dull blade. A blade that, even if you tried to cut yourself, it wouldn’t get through your skin. You’d need a harsh sharpener to give this knife an edge.

Pick a low-grit size, and it’ll scrape off steel fast. After a few strokes, you’ll find it significantly sharper – sharp enough to hurt you.

Now let’s say you have a sushi knife. It is already very sharp, but you know it’s not enough to slice sushi without bruising it.

In this scenario, you’d need a high-grit stone. A low-grit will eat way too much steel and can damage the blade. A high-grit, on the other hand, will take this knife from sharp to razor-sharp.

How to Choose Grit Size

The higher the grit, the softer the stone… but how do you know which one you need?

To help you with this, you can imagine grit sizes in three categories: low, medium, and high.

In the low category are the hardest of the hard stones. These are the stones with grit sizes from 0 to 320.

If an edge needs a lot of work, these are the stones you need. They can fix super dull blades, chips, cracks, and other problems.

Here you find stones made from silicon carbide, diamond stones, and any other hard material.

When finished, these stones leave a rough edge. Because they’re so hard, they can only go so far in the way of sharpness. For a sharper edge, you’ll need a medium stone.

Medium stones aren’t the best for fixing blades. They can sharpen an ultra-dull or damaged edge, but it’ll take a lot of time for them to do this.

Instead, these stones, which range from about 400 to 2,000 grit size, are used for the main sharpening. They take rough edges and turn them into smooth, sharp ones.

Here you find Arkansas stones, as well as some synthetic ones.

While they’re great for sharpening, these stones aren’t fine enough for polishing. Which brings us to the next level.

High whetstones, the finest of the fine. These stones are soft and delicate, but it’s through them that we get the most deadly edges.

This is where Japanese whetstones, Belgian blues, and some extra-fine synthetic stones come in.

Aside from giving your knives the sharpest edge, these stones also polish your blade. The shine they give makes your knife beautiful in the most deadly way.

Keep in mind though that most people don’t need an extra-high grit whetstone. I’m talking those in the 12,000-30,000 grit range.

Most non-professionals can’t tell the difference between a 5,000 grit and a 30,000 grit finish anyway. So don’t get carried away by those high numbers – as if your knives aren’t complete without them – and save some money instead.

How to Use a Whetstone

Now for the hard part.

The best whetstone in the world doesn’t sharpen your blade… you sharpen your blade.

What I mean is that even if you have the most expensive whetstone, you can’t sharpen a thing if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Proper technique is king when it comes to sharpening, not your whetstone.

The good news is that sharpening with whetstones isn’t difficult. There are several ways to do it, and I’ll show you my favorite method.

The bad news is that it takes practice. You’re not going to get it right the first time, but don’t get discouraged! Keep practicing until you master it – just like I have.

So, how is it done?

Step 1: Preparing the Whetstone

The last thing you want is a whetstone that isn’t stable. Not only will sharpening be unnecessarily difficult, but you could also round your blade.

Rubberized shelf liners or wet paper towels will do the trick. Once your whetstone is on top of these, it won’t go all over the place while you’re sharpening.

You also want to lubricate your stone. Depending on what type of stone you have, you’ll either use oil or water.

Some stones require you to soak them before using, while others you can simply splash and go. Check the instructions of your stone before using it. Trust me, you don’t want a clogged stone.

Step 2: Proper Hand Positioning

One thing I see too many people doing wrong is holding their knife wrong.

Sure, you can hold it any way you like – but don’t complain when your knife is unevenly sharpened.

For the best results, you need to use proper hand positioning.

Hold your knife firmly with your dominant hand (for this example, we’ll use our right hand. Flip everything around if you’re left-handed).

You want three fingers – your pinky, ring, and middle finger – wrapped around the handle. Your thumb should be on the spine of your blade. Finally, you want your pointer finger at the side, somewhere between the spine and edge (you’ll use this to add pressure while sharpening).

That is for sharpening the left side of your blade. When sharpening the right, your pointer stays on the spine while your thumb stays on the side.

With this grip, you can hold your knife steady and can sharpen at a consistent angle.

Your non-dominant hand won’t be idle either. Use it to add pressure while sharpening by placing two or three fingers along the body of the blade.

Step 3: The Right Angle

Now you need to find the right angle.

Not a 90-degree angle, but the correct angle for sharpening your blade.

Every blade is different. Most have an edge somewhere between 10-20 degrees, but there are so many exceptions.

Before sharpening any blade, it’s good to perform a little angle test first.

Take a sharpie and mark along the edge of your blade. Then run your knife against your whetstone, adjusting the angle until only the edge is hit (the sharpie marking makes it easy to see when you’ve accomplished this). It’s best to use a fine-grit stone for this – you don’t want to angle-test on a stone that will eat your steel fast!

Once you’ve found the right angle, you’re ready to sharpen.

Step 4: Sharpening the Left Side

Again, there are several methods to sharpen your knife. What I’ll teach you today is the push/pull method.

With your knife firmly in your hand and at the right angle, push and pull it against your whetstone. Use your non-dominant hand to press down on the blade when you are pulling.

DO NOT add pressure when you are pushing. When the edge of the knife is facing away from you, only add pressure when you pull.

On the flip side, when your knife is facing you, only add pressure when you push, never when you pull. This is to avoid your blade cutting into your whetstone – this damages both steel and stone.

If your blade has a belly, keep your wrist loose. You don’t have to sharpen in straight lines – this will flatten the curve of your belly.

As you sharpen back and forth, slowly move from the tip towards the base of your blade. Once you reach the base, you’ve completed one pass.

Step 5: Feeling for a Burr

How do you know you’re done?

You’ll feel a burr.

After a few passes, run your finger across the edge opposite the side you were working on. If you small “hairs” of steel, you know you’re done with that side.

If you sharpened at the right angle all throughout, you’ll feel this burr on the entire edge.

Step 6: Sharpening the Right Side

That is if your knife is double-beveled.

When working on the other side, don’t transfer the knife to your weaker hand. This will feel super awkward and may be dangerous. Instead, face the knife towards you and adjust your grip.

Then, repeat steps 1-4.

Step 7: Polishing Your Blade

Too many people think that after sharpening, their knife is good to go.

It’s not.

Failing to polish your blade is leaving the job half done. Yes, your knife will be better than before, but it can never achieve that razor-sharpness we all dream of without polishing.

To polish, you’ll need a strop. Stropping is the same as sharpening, the only difference is you should apply a lot less pressure.

Your knife will be shiny, burr-free, and deadly sharp when you’re finished.

Note: if you started with a damaged or extremely dull knife, you may want to sharpen with higher grits before stropping. Start with a low grit, move to medium, polish it with high, then finish it off with a strop. You can get any knife katana-sharp with this method.

Do Whetstones Wear Out?

As you sharpen your knife, your whetstone will inevitably lose material. A lot slower than your steel blade, but enough that after a few months of sharpening, your stone won’t be flat anymore.

Flatness is very important in whetstones. Running your knife is smooth and easy when the stone is flat. When it’s not, keeping the right sharpening angle will be very difficult.

That’s why you need to flatten your whetstones.

It’s essential to know how to flatten your stones. Every one of them will need flattening eventually. The harder stones may last longer, but they will lose their flatness at some point.

How is it done?

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How to Flatten a Whetstone

The cheapest way to do this is to take your whetstone and rub it against the sidewalk outside. Rub it until it’s completely flat again.

You might think that’s a joke, but it actually is a feasible way to flatten your whetstone.

For a more “proper” approach, use sandpaper, a flattening stone, or a flattening plate. The technique is the same – rub it against your whetstone (or rub your whetstone against it) until it’s flat again.

Conclusion

If you’ve reached this far, you’re no longer part of that hypocritical bunch of people that say they love knives, but don’t know a thing about whetstones.

So go sharpen your knife…

…buy a new whetstone…

…or flatten your old one.

You now know all there is to know about whetstones.

20 Types of Legendary Japanese Swords: The Ultimate Guide


Japanese swords were the privilege of only the most skilled and honoured Japanese warriors. Not everyone had the chance to handle a samurai sword. Those who did were honourable personalities with immense fighting skills and a premium reputation as a fighter.

The primary role of these Japanese swords was for fighting, although they go beyond just being military swords. They are works of art, created and crafted by only the most skilful craftsmen and swordsmiths. Even today, Japanese swords are produced by craftsmen with decades of experience and expertise when it comes to samurai swords.

Almost everyone knows about the katana, but there are many more types of Japanese swords. There’s the odachi sword, Tachi sword, ninja sword, and a whole host of other models that not many people know of.

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In this article, I’ve gathered together 20 types of Japanese swords that are not as known to the general public. These are real pieces of art, but at their core, they are fighting swords (most of them) with a unique design – something we simply don’t see in the West.

Not two types of Japanese swords are the same – they vary in shape, size, type of handle, grain structure, building materials, and the grain tempered on the edge of the sword.

Sit back and relax. Observe the beauty of the variety that comes with Japanese swords.

1. Odachi

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Odachi, or Nodachi sword, as it’s sometimes called, was a samurai sword that was one of the more traditional swords used by the samurais on a battlefield.

The odachi sword is a big, two-handed sword that was mainly used against cavalry in open-field battles. As they were too big to be sheathed on one’s waist, they were either sheathed on one’s back, or they were carried in hand or held by a helper.

The word odachi, or Nodachi, translates to the “great sword”, and is an equivalent to the longsword from the West. However, the production of these samurai blades was much more complex. Due to their length (90cm, or 35.8 inches), the regular heat treatment was harder due to the length of the blade. And because the blade was curved, it required a skilled swordsmith to produce an odachi sword.

If you would like to read more about Odachi Sword, click here.


2. Tachi

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The Tachi sword was a predecessor to the katana, one of the most famous Japanese sword. They share many similarities, although there are some vital differences between the two.

Firstly, a Tachi sword is longer and curvier. Authentic Tachi swords stem from the Koto period (from 900-1596). After that, katanas started becoming more prevalent. These two types of blades were separated from each other by the signature on the tang.

The production of the blade was a complicated one. It had to be made in a set amount of time and from the correct materials. It also had to follow specific instructions as to how the blade should look. Namely, a Tachi sword had a blade of around 70-80 cm (27-31 inches), was longer than a katana, had a bigger curve, and was also thinner.


3. Katana

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When we think of Japanese swords, most of us think of a katana sword. That’s because they are historically and traditionally one of the most common swords used by the samurais. And katanas only became a popular choice during the Shinto period (1596-1780), although they were already in use earlier.

A katana was meant to be held by two hands and were a popular choice for close combat. Usually, they were smaller than the Tachi swords, although they were still quite substantial. They were about 60-70 cm (27-28 inches) in size. The blades were curved, although not as much as the Tachi blades.

Traditional katanas were slightly different from modern katanas. They were larger, longer, and more substantial. And katanas held up all the way until today. During WW2, they were a preferred weapon of choice of the fighters. For a brief period after WW2, katanas were banned, although they began to be produced after 1953 again.

Katanas are made from Japanese steel called Tamahagane, which is folded several times to create a sturdy blade. The older the steel is, the better the blade will be, but it will also cost more. But it’s the curving procedure that makes a katana a marvel.

You Can Check Our Popular articles about Katana Here


4. Wakizashi

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The wakizashi sword was a sword that complemented the katana, or another longer sword. Many warriors carried the wakizashi sword in addition to the katana, as it was a more lightweight, shorter sword that could be wielded by just one arm.

Wakizashi swords are between 30-60cm (12-24 inches) in size – the average size of the sword is about 50cm. The pairing of a katana and a wakizashi sword was called Daisho – translating roughly to “big-little”. However, we must not think of this type of sword as just the smaller version of a katana.

They usually had very specific and unique production processes. They were slightly thicker than katanas, and if the production was unique, it was also slightly less curved. Many of these swords also had unique patterns on the edge of the sword.


5. Shin Gunto

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The shin Gunto sword was a part of the Gunto sword family. The word shin Gunto translates to “new military sword”, and they were mainly used by the Imperial Japanese Army between 1935 and 1945. It was to complement the usual weapons that were used during WW2, such as guns and pistols.

These swords were styled after the original Gunto swords from the 12th and 13th centuries. They were only worn by officers, who used to wear this sword according to their status in the military. Generals wore brown-red and gold shin Gunto, while officers mainly wore brown or brown-red swords.

Various subtypes of the shin Gunto were produced over the years. The Type 94 Shin Gunto were the first models from 1934, although the Type 95 swords were produced already the next year. Type 98 Shin Gunto swords started production in 1938. These Japanese swords were often seen with Japanese troops, especially generals, during WW2.


6. Tanto

The tanto swords were used by Japanese samurais when the combat went close and personal. These swords were double-edged short swords – usually, the size of these blades was between 15-30cm (6-12 inches). They were made before the new tactical knives were designed after WW2. And we can still see tanto swords today.

The primary role of a tanto was for self-defense. They were much like knives, although they were far more complex to make than regular knives. There are 12 different blades that can be mounted on the tanto sword. Since the 10th century, tanto swords were one of the primary swords that samurais used for personal self-defense, and for when combat became intense, close-quarters.


7. Ninja

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Ninja swords were swords that were used by shinobi, or ninjas. Ninjas were covert agents of medieval Japan, and they became somewhat of a cult figure in Japan. They even had their own blades.

Ninja swords were relatively different from katanas. Firstly, they had straight blades, and they were also slightly shorter. The length of ninja swords was about 48cm (19 inches). They were thick and made for unusual forms of combat. Additionally, they were not as complicated to create as katanas, for example, as they had straight blades without curves.

The main purpose of a ninja sword was for stabbing, unlike curved blades which were made to cut instead of stab. And they were also smaller because ninjas were also more agile, as they often climbed and moved around swiftly, so the sword had to be inconspicuous.


8. Uchigatana

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Uchigatana was the descendant of a Tachi sword. They started to be produced between the 14th and 16th centuries, and they were mainly used by samurais. The sizes of the blades varied between 60 and 70cm (from 24 inches), and the primary strategy to use these swords was to produce swift, cutting strikes.

These strikes were to be smooth, and just one swing was enough to do substantial damage. That’s slightly different from Tachi swords, which were to be used continually. As it was thin, it could be used single-handedly, and they were also more lightweight.


9. Tsurugi

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The Tsurugi swords were something of a mythological blade. In Japanese mythology, Tsurugi blades were used as the “sword of the gods”, however, they were started to be produced during the Edo period. These swords were large, two-handed swords that were only used by imperial classes.

A Tsurugi sword was a large, long sword ranging in sizes between 90 to 100cm (35-39 inches); the handle itself was 8 inches long. It was also not usually curved – instead, it had a straight blade, made for big, striking blows. According to legends, the first Tsurugi blades were made from stone, although they were later made from bronze and iron.

In many ways, Tsurugi swords were similar to the Chinese Jian sword, which was a long broadsword.


10. Chokuto

Chokuto swords were ancient swords, made until the 9th century. They were one-edged swords with a straight blade. The primary role of Chokuto swords was for stabbing, and they were used by foot soldiers who wore these swords on their waists.

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These swords are among the earliest swords from Japanese history. Some sources track it back to some of the Chinese swords from the time, although other sources say that it was developed independently. The main difference, however, was in the tempering – in the Japanese swordsmith industry, the tempering was durable and more sturdy.


11. Kodachi

Kodachi literally translates to “Little Tachi”, or “Small Tachi”. They were made in the style of Tachi swords, although they were much shorter. Usually, they would not exceed the size of 60cm (23 inches). Kodachi swords complemented the katana sword, but they are not to be confused with the wakizashi sword.

The primary role of the wakizashi was to complement the katana, but kodachi swords could still be used on their own. It’s stuck somewhere in between a dagger and a sword, although they were considered primary short swords.

In many ways, they resemble short swords that come from the West, although the styling was very different, including the curve of the sword, and its primary use.


12. Ninjato

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The Ninjato was a ninja sword, although it was slightly longer than the usual ninja swords. They were straight blade swords, and they were used for stabbing primarily. Shinobis, or ninjas, used these swords for their covert operations.

An interesting fact is that samurai classes considered the activities of a ninja as something that’s below them. That’s why they had a relatively poor opinion of the Ninjato sword, and they almost never used one.

Ninja swords are a very popular occurrence nowadays. We can see these swords practically everywhere, especially in popular culture. Movies and anime often show Ninjato swords as these deadly weapons, although there is still a common misconception that ninjas used curved blades. Shinobis usually used Ninjato, which were straight blades, and very different from katanas.


13. Nagamaki

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The Nagamaki sword was one of the traditional Japanese swords used by samurais. The unique feature of the Nagamaki sword was the extra-long handle which was usually as long as the blade itself. This made it perfect for two-handed usage where the right hand was always closer to the blade than the left. It was a sword that was commonly used against cavalry.

A usual Nagamaki was usually 54 inches long, where the handle was as long as the blade. This means that the handle is about 26-27 inches, while the blade itself is 25-27 inches long. The main, distinct feature of this blade is its handle.

In many ways, it was similar to a katana’s handle, although far sturdier and usually decorated with colors. Brown and red were a common occurrence.


14. Zanbato

Zanbato swords stem all the way back to the 3rd century BC. They are originally based on Chinese Zhanmadao swords, which were anti-cavalry swords. And Zanbato swords were made for specifically this usage – against cavalries.

The literal translation of Zanbato is “horse-slaying sword”, or “horse-chopping saber”. These swords are a rare find nowadays, although they are a very popular figure in many modern interpretations, such as anime and manga.

They loosely resemble a Nagamaki sword, although there were some distinct features that made the Zanbato sword unique. The handle was quite long – about 15 inches, and the blade was usually thicker and larger than with most blades. That made it a sword for cutting horses.


15. Daisho

Daisho represents a combination of two different swords being used simultaneously. Samurais often used or carried two different swords: in addition to a katana or daito (long sword), they also carried a shoto (short sword), such as a wakizashi. And this combination proved to be a deadly one, as samurais constantly interchanged between the two swords.

But these swords were not just two random swords used in combination. These two swords were carefully chosen by the samurai, and they were usually crafted by the same swordsmith. This means that these two swords had a matched set of fittings, and they were relatively similar in appearance.

A samurai would carry the long sword on his back or in his hands, while he would have the short sword around his waist. Daisho became popular during the Muromachi period (14th and 15th century), when samurais started acknowledging that long swords were not appropriate for close-quarters combat, and they needed a smaller, shorter blade to allow them to win a battle in close quarters.


16. Yoroi-Doshi

A Yoroi-Doshi was a type of tanto (knife) that was used specifically for piercing through armour.

The direct translation of Yoroi-Doshi is “armour piercer”, which tells us about the capability of this sword to shred through armour, even a thicker one.

These were short swords, or knives – they ranged in sizes between 20cm to 22cm, although some swords could be as short as 15cm (6 inches). The Yoroi-Doshi were very sharp and they had a very pointy end, allowing it to go through armour and injure the opponent with just a stab. It has a thick blade, which made it especially effective against thicker armours.

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This blade started growing in popularity during the Sengoku period (14th and 15th centuries) when the first chainmail and steel armours were being introduced. Yoroi-Doshi was usually worn inside the belt on the back or on one’s waist, which allowed the samurais to wield the sword quickly and protect themselves from armoured opponents.


17. Kaiken

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The Kaiken sword, or the knife, was a very small blade that was primarily used for self-protection in very closed areas, where the usual katanas and wakizashi swords were inconvenient. But, in addition to that, the Kaiken was a bit of a status symbol – only the highest classes were allowed to own one.

They were carried by both men and women, and they were tucked into the pocket of a kimono. Women only started to carry a Kaiken with them when they married as a means of self-protection. An interesting fact about the Kaiken knives is that they were often used for ritual suicide by cutting one’s neck veins.

The Kaiken blades were very small. Usually, they did not reach a size of 30 cm, and they were somewhere between 20-25 cm long (8-10 inches) long. There was plenty of space for customizability of Kaiken – the higher echelons of Japanese culture were allowed to have their own colors and distinct features that made the Kaiken unique.


18. Bokken

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Bokken swords were primarily used as practice swords, or even as decorative pieces. They were wooden swords, so they were not used in combat. However, they were mostly a tool that samurais used for practice. Normally, they were katana-shaped, although many bokken swords were also smaller, such as wakizashi blades.

The size of a bokken depended on the type of training that a samurai required. If they wanted to practice close-quarter combat, they used smaller bokken swords. If they wanted some katana practice, they chose a katana-shaped bokken. And one of the primary uses of a bokken blade was also for teaching younger samurais to properly handle the sword.

Today, we still see a bokken in aikido or other martial arts where it acts as a practice weapon. Injuries can still happen, although these swords are made to simulate the usage of a katana without significant injuries.


19. Shinai

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Shinai is another practice blade, used primarily in kendo. Today, shinai swords are used for competition in kendo, and they are also often used for practice. They are made from bamboo. The first practice swords from bamboo were made in the 16th century when they wanted to simulate real-life combat without harming.

Injuries still occurred, which is why the design of a shinai sword changed so much throughout the years. Smoked bamboo is commonly used, or a sort of bamboo that’s soaked in resin. It’s made of several components: the tsuka (handle), tsuba (collar), take, Naka-Yui, and Mono-Uchi. Today, plastic is often used for the handle and some parts, although the majority is still made from bamboo.

Shinai swords should be maintained frequently. This includes regular inspections for tears, fractures, and regular oiling. All this can extend the lifetime of the sword. Additionally, it can prevent injuries and the need to create or buy new shinai swords.


20. Kyu-Gunto

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We’ve already talked about the Shin-Gunto, which was also called the “new military sword”. Kyu-Gunto, on the other hand, is also called the “old military sword”. It was the first standard sword used by the Japanese military. The first general that instructed the use of Kyu-Gunto was Murata Tsuneyoshi from the 19th century.

At first, these swords were made to represent the usual samurai swords, although they were still very much different. After a while, these old military swords started to look more and more like the European and American military swords. Today, they make an excellent collection of anyone’s ancient sword repertoire.

Because they were mass-produced, they lost a bit on the quality of the samurai swords. However, that changed in 1935, when Kyu-Gunto swords went out of fashion and Shin-Gunto swords were the standard sword for the military. Since then, Kyu-Gunto swords represent a valuable piece of antique.

30 Best Knife Steel You Should Know About


When I first got into knives, I paid very little attention to the steel.

I knew the difference between carbon steel and stainless steel. But that’s as far as my knowledge goes. To me, there were only two types of steel.

Boy, was I wrong? Back then, I was unaware that there was a whole world of steels. I was unaware of all the beauties and intricacies of these metals.

Today, I want to share with you what I’ve learned along the way. So buckle up, because this is my ultimate guide to the Best Knife Steel.

1. CPM S110V Steel

CPM-S110V

First up, we have the CPM S110V. This premium stainless steel isn’t the most common knives materials. But when you see this around, you know you are getting a very high-quality knife.

Developed by Crucible Industries, this knife has some unique properties.

CPM S110V Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 2.8%
  • Chromium 15.25%
  • Vanadium 9.0%
  • Niobium (Columbium) 3.0%
  • Molybdenum 2.25%
  • Cobalt 2.50

As you can see, there are quite a lot of alloys in this steel. The chromium, vanadium, and niobium all give this steel incredible edge retention. You won’t have to worry about sharpening, every now and then.

Also, it is quite good at resisting corrosion. It is, after all, stainless steel. That’s why maintaining this steel isn’t too difficult, you won’t have to worry about rust popping up.

Given that there are so many alloys mixed in, this steel loses some of its sharpness and toughness. But for those going for edge-retention and corrosion resistance, this is a great choice.

Best CPM S110V Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-10 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


2. CPM S90V Steel

CPM S90V

Crucible Industries have also developed the CPM S90V. This steel is more popular than its counterpart. Brands such as Benchmark and Spyderco use it all the time in their knives.

CPM S90V Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 2.3%
  • Chromium 14.0%
  • Vanadium 9.0%
  • Molybdenum 1.0%

This steel doesn’t have as many alloys as the S110V. However, you’ll notice that it still has high amounts of chromium and vanadium.

These give it a quite good edge-retention and corrosion resistance. However, without the other alloys, it’s not as good at these – as the S110V.

That said, with more iron, it is a bit tougher. you can check out Crucible’s Datasheet.

Best CPM S90V Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-10 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


3. M390 Steel

M390

Next up, the M390 by Bohler Uddenholm. A lot of people consider this to be one of the best steels for knives. This steel is mostly seen in high-end knives. If you have an expensive kitchen knife, chances are it is made from this steel.

To know why this is so popular? let’s have a look at its properties.

M390 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.90%
  • Chromium 20%
  • Vanadium 4%
  • Molybdenum 1%
  • Silicon 0.70%
  • Tungsten 0.60%
  • Manganese 0.30%

By now, you should be familiar with chromium and vanadium. The molybdenum, silicon, tungsten, and manganese give this steel extra strength. This is something that the first two types of steel lack.

This way, you get a very well rounded steel. Its stainless properties aren’t as high as the other two we’ve looked at, but it is much tougher.

Best M390 Steel Knives

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4. ZDP-189 Steel

ZDP 189

The ZDP-189 is very high-quality steel, manufactured by the Japanese company Hitachi. This steel is known for its extra-high carbon content, combined with its high chromium. At 3% carbon, this is one of the highest carbon stainless steel you can find.

ZDP-189 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 3%
  • Chromium 20%
  • Molybdenum 1.4%
  • Tungsten 0.6%
  • Vanadium 0.1%
  • Manganese 0.5%
  • Silicon 0.4%

This high carbon makes this steel super hard. It’s so hard, you can expect it to stay sharp for a long, long time.

On the flip side, its hardness makes this steel very difficult to sharpen. You’ll need something harder than this steel to Sharpen it, which isn’t easy to find.

You can read more about the ZDP-189 Here

Best ZDP-189 Steel Knives

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5. Elmax Steel

Elmax Steel 1

Bohler-Uddenholm is not only known for the M390 but also for Elmax. This is another very well-rounded steel. It has just the right amount of strength and corrosion resistance.

Elmax Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.7%
  • Chromium 18%
  • Molybdenum 1%
  • Vanadium 3%
  • Manganese 0.3%
  • Silicon 0.8%

By comparing these properties with that of the M390, you’ll see that almost all its properties are slightly less. This makes it not as good on the stainless side.

However, one way that the Elmax is better than the M390 is in the ease of sharpening. Because it isn’t as hard, and there aren’t as many alloys, sharpening is much easier.

Best Elmax Steel Knives

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6. CPM-20CV Steel

CPM 20CV Steel

The CPM-20CV by Crucible Industries is almost a carbon copy of the M390. If you compare their properties, you’ll see that the only difference is the silicon and manganese of the M390. Everything else, even the percentages, are the same.

CPM-20CV Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.9%
  • Chromium 20%
  • Vanadium 4.0%
  • Molybdenum 1.0%
  • Tungsten 0.6%

This way, CPM-20CV is very good at resisting corrosion. Furthermore, it can keep its edge for a long, long time. Without the silicon and manganese though, you won’t get as much strength as the M390.

Since it’s by Crucible, there is, of course, a complete Datasheet

Best CPM-20CV Steel Knives

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7. CTS-XHP Steel

CTS XHP Steel

The CTS-XHP is a premium steel developed by Carpenter. It might not be as good as the others we’ve looked at, but this steel has a lot to offer, which you can check out Here

CTS-XHP Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.6%
  • Chromium 16%
  • Molybdenum 0.8%
  • Manganese 0.5%
  • Vanadium 0.45%
  • Silicon 0.4%
  • Nickel 0.35%

A new element that we haven’t seen before is nickel. When nickel is added to steel, it gives it more impact strength and toughness. At the same time, it also helps with corrosion resistance.

This, plus the other elements, creates a steel that is good at everything. It is strong, resistant, and easy to sharpen as well.

Best CTS-XHP Steel Knives

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8. CPM-M4 Steel

CPM M4 Steel

The CPM-M4 is a very high-performance carbon-steel. Crucible doesn’t only forge stainless steels, but also carbon steel as well. This comes at the cost of losing some of its corrosion resistance. Full DataSheet

CPM-M4 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.42%
  • Chromium 4%
  • Vanadium 4%
  • Tungsten 5.5%
  • Molybdenum 5.25%
  • Manganese 0.3%
  • Sulfur 0.06%

As you can see, there is drastically less chromium than the other steels we’ve looked at. This is why you’ll need to be more careful with this steel. Proper maintenance will be very important.

Other than that though, this steel outperforms a lot of other steels. It is hard, sharp, and can keep its edge for a long, long time. Also, it isn’t that difficult to sharpen.

Best CPM-M4 Steel Knives

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9. CPM S35VN Steel

CPM S35VN Steel

The CPM S35VN is an improvement of another steel by Crucible – the CPM S35V. As always, The DataSheet!

CPM S35VN Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.4%
  • Chromium 14%
  • Vanadium 3%
  • Molybdenum 2%
  • Niobium 0.5%

When you compare the properties of this steel to that of the S35V, you’ll see that the difference is small. However, the new and improved S35VN is harder and easier to machine as well.

Best CPM S35VN Steel Knives

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10. CPM S30V Steel

CPM S30V Steel

CPM S30V is very popular steel by Crucible. Despite having a “new and improved” version in the CPM S35, this steel is very good. That’s why dozens of knives makers use this steel.

CPM S30V Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.45%
  • Chromium 14%
  • Vanadium 4%
  • Molybdenum 2%

This steel contains slightly more carbon than the S35VN. It also doesn’t have any niobium. That’s why it isn’t as hard as that one.

When it comes to knives though, you’ll find that it’s very difficult to tell these two types of steel apart. It’s only in manufacturing where the difference is clearly seen.

You can also read deeper into all of this in the CPM S30V Datasheet.

Best CPM S30V Steel Knives

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11. 154CM Steel

154CM Steel

The 154CM is a very popular stainless steel today. It’s considered to be better than the ubiquitous 440 steel series. So, if you’re looking for an improvement of that, you should check out the 154CM.

154CM Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.05%
  • Chromium 14%
  • Manganese 0.5%
  • Molybdenum 4%
  • Silicon 0.3%

154CM is a jack-of-all-trades type of steel. It doesn’t lack anything, but it isn’t particularly good at everything either.

It’s quite tough, quite easy to sharpen, quite resistant to corrosion, and quite good at keeping its edge. But again, not the best at anything.

That said, it is slightly better at everything than the 440 series.

Best 154CM Steel Knives

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12. ATS-34 Steel

ATS 34 Steel

The ATS-34 by Hitachi is one of the better steels made by this Japanese brand. It’s not only Crucible that makes good ones. Read more here

ATS-34 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.25%
  • Chromium 14%
  • Manganese 0.4%
  • Molybdenum 4%
  • Silicon 0.25%

This steel has a lot in common with the154CM. If you take a close look at the properties, you’ll see that they differ ever so slightly.

Because of this, a lot of people call the ATS-34 the Japanese 154CM. It’s also a blade that is quite good at everything.

It doesn’t lack anything. Unfortunately, it isn’t number one at anything either.

Best ATS-34 Steel Knives

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13. D2 Steel

D2 Steel 1

D2 is a common type of steel that you can find everywhere. There’s a big chance that you own a knife using this steel. That’s why it’s a good idea to learn more about this type of steel:

D2 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.5%
  • Chromium 12%
  • Vanadium 0.9%
  • Molybdenum 0.8%
  • Silicon 0.3%

D2 isn’t the best steel by a long stretch. Instead, D2 is easy to manufacture, and not too expensive either.

One notable thing about the D2 is that it only has 12% chromium. While that’s high, it isn’t enough to be considered stainless steel. That said, it is still very good at resisting corrosion.

It is also an old steel. While some of the steels here have been made in the last few years, D2 has been around since WWII(World War 2)! And despite all the advancement, it’s still quite common nowadays.

This goes to show how good this steel is. Again, not the best. But a very good option for knives.

Best D2 Steel Knives

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14. H1 Steel

H1 Steel 1

H1 is the single most corrosion-resistant steel. Crafted by Japanese brand Myodo Metals, this is the stainless steel of stainless-steels.

A lot of times, “stainless steel” doesn’t actually mean stainless. Sure, they have very high corrosion resistance. But if you don’t take care of them, they will eventually rust.

Not H1. It won’t rust, no matter what you do to it – even if you leave it in saltwater!

Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s look at the properties.

H1 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.15%
  • Chromium 16%
  • Molybdenum 1.5%
  • Nitrogen 0.1%
  • Nickel 8%
  • Manganese 2%
  • Silicon 4.5%
  • Copper 0.1%
  • Phosphorous 0.04%
  • Sulfur 0.03%

There are a lot of elements that go into making this special steel. One of the things that stand out is how little carbon is used in manufacturing the steel. This is one of the reasons why it doesn’t rust easily.

Japanese company Myodo Metal has created a truly amazing steel. You can read more about it here:

The only problem is that you’ll have to sharpen it quite often. Other than that, you’ll also have to spend a lot to get this steel. It’s so good, it doesn’t come cheap.

Best H1 Steel Knives

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15. LC200N Steel

LC200N Steel

Zapp has also created a stainless steel that is almost completely stainless. It isn’t quite good as the H1, but this is another steel that features extreme corrosion resistance.

LC200N Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.3%
  • Chromium 15%
  • Molybdenum 1%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Nickel 0.5%
  • Nitrogen 0.5%

THe LC200N has a shockingly low carbon amount. That said, it’s other components that give it all the strength it needs. You’ll find that its toughness isn’t going to be a problem at all.

No, you can’t leave your LC200N in saltwater without consequences. But this blade was made to survive the most humid conditions. It can stand in conditions where most other stainless steels will go rusted already.

For more information on this amazing steel, check it here

Best LC200N Steel Knives

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16. N680 Steel

N680 Steel 1

The N680 by Bohler is yet another highly-corrosion resistant steel. Again, it’s not as good as H1, but neither is it as expensive. You can see it’s full properties here

N680 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.54%
  • Chromium 17.3%
  • Silicon 0.45%
  • Manganese 0.4%
  • Molybdenum 1.1%
  • Nickel 0.5%
  • Vanadium 0.1%
  • Nitrogen 0.2%

If you use your knife around saltwater a lot, you may want to get N680 steel. This is because, with it’s chromium and nitrogen, it resists rust and corrosion a lot.

As I’ve already said, it isn’t as expensive as H1. That’s why it’s more common as well. Getting a good corrosion-resistant knife doesn’t have to be that expensive anyway.

Best N680 Steel Knives

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17. 440C Steel

440C Steel

440 steel is one of the most well-known types of steel available. You’ve surely heard of this by now. And if you’ve been with us for a while, you may have even read my article on this steel already.

440C Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.2%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Silicon 1%
  • Chromium 18%
  • Molybdenum 0.75%
  • Phosphorous 0.04%
  • Sulfur 0.03%

440C is the hardest of the 440 line-up, which is an affordable set of steels. This is why some people look down on the 440C. We shouldn’t do this though.

If you check out this knife’s capabilities, you’ll find that it is a very good one. That’s why it is super popular nowadays. It’s not only the price that makes 440C so common, but it’s also how good it is.

Best 440C Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-10 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


18. AUS-8 Steel

AUS 8 Steel 1

The AUS-8 is a Japanese budget steel. It’s so affordable, this is the type of steel you see in mass-produced knives. Nonetheless, it’s still a very interesting one.

AUS-8 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.75%
  • Chromium 14.5%
  • Molybdenum 0.3%
  • Vanadium 0.26%
  • Nickel 0.49%
  • Manganese 0.5%
  • Silicon 1%
  • Phosphorous 0.04%
  • Sulfur 0.03%

One of the steels you can compare this with is the 440C. It’s better at corrosion resistance, but not quite as tough.

Like the 440C, just because it’s cheap doesn’t mean that it isn’t good. You can find some great knives that use AUS-8.

Of course, it doesn’t compare to top-of-the-line steels. But this Japanese steel is truly a bang for the buck.

Best AUS-8 Steel Knives

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19. CTS-BD1 Steel

CTS BD1 Steel 1

The CTS-BD1 is Carpenter’s version of budget steel. It isn’t as good as the CTS-XHP, but it is also much cheaper.

CTS-BD1 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.95%
  • Chromium 17%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Silicon 1%
  • Molybdenum 0.5%
  • Phosphorous 0.04%
  • Sulfur 0.03%

A lot of people consider this to be one of the better budget steels around. This is because it is great at corrosion resistance, isn’t too bad at keeping its edge, and is quite easy to sharpen as well.

It isn’t the toughest steel around, but that’s fine. For people new to knives, this steel is a great place to start. It isn’t difficult to maintain, and it’s not like this steel doesn’t have any strength.

Sure, it’s not the best, but it is still quite good. Most people even rank this higher than the 440C.

Best CTS-BD1 Steel Knives

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20. 8Cr13MoV Steel

8Cr13MoV Steel 1

The 8cr13mov is a China-made budget steel that has great value for money. You may think someone fell asleep on their keyboard when you first see this name, but it actually makes sense. This name is based on the properties of this steel.

8Cr13MoV Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.8%
  • Chromium 13%
  • Molybdenum .15%
  • Vanadium 0.1%
  • Nickel 0.2%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Silicon 1%

This steel is made in China and is so cheap, it’s even cheaper than the AUS-8.

At the same time, it isn’t as good as the AUS-8. It’s less resistant to corrosion, and it isn’t as tough either.

The area where this steel shines though is when it comes to value. For a very low price, you can get  this very decent steel.

Best 8Cr13MoV Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-14 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


21. 14C28N Steel

14C28N Steel

14C28N is stainless steel by Sandvik. A lot of countries produce good steel, and one of them is Sweden. It’s from this country that we get the famous steel brand Sandvik.

One of their most popular products is the 14C28N. For the full information on this steel, check this out

14C28N Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.62%
  • Chromium 14%
  • Silicon 0.2%
  • Manganese 0.6%
  • Phosphorous 0.025%
  • Sulfur 0.01%
  • Nitrogen 0.11%

This is another steel that’s good at everything, but not excellent at anything. It’s also not expensive to get either.

Unlike some of the other cheap steel though, this one is quite hard. It is also super easy to sharpen.

Best 14C28N Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-11 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


22. 440A Steel

440A Steel

While not as good as 440C, 440A is still all over the place. It should be a steel that you are well familiar with. It needs no introduction, but if you want to learn more, you can do so here

440A Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.75%
  • Chromium 18%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Silicon 1%
  • Molybdenum 0.75%
  • Sulfur 0.03%
  • Phosphorous 0.04%

The main difference between this steel and 440C is that 440A has less carbon. That’s why it isn’t as hard and as tough as its counterpart.

That said, less carbon means more room for corrosion resistance. However, you should know that the difference is very small. That’s why 440C is seen as better steel altogether.

Best 440A Steel Knives

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23. 420HC Steel

420HC Steel

420HC is another budget steel that is all over the place. However, when done right, good manufacturers can bring out its full potential. Manufacturers such as Buck Knives use this steel all the time.

420HC Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.45%
  • Manganese 0.8%
  • Chromium 13%
  • Silicon 0.8%
  • Nickel 0.5%

The best thing about this steel is that it is easy to sharpen. You won’t run into any problems at all when you do this.

Aside from that, everything else is quite average. It’s not particularly bad at anything, but it isn’t special in any way either. That’s why only good manufacturers can bring out the good side of this steel.

Best 420HC Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-11 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


24. 13C26 Steel

13C26 Steel

Sandvik, the Swedish steel company, also created the 13C26. It is similar in a lot of ways to the 14C28N, but it doesn’t contain any nitrogen.

13C26 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.6%
  • Chromium 13%
  • Manganese 0.7%
  • Silicon 0.4%
  • Sulfur 0.01%

Without nitrogen, it isn’t as hard and doesn’t have as much fatigue life. A closer comparison would be to the 440A.

When compared with the 440A, it’s difficult to tell these steels apart. The 13C26 is slightly harder, and not as good with corrosion resistance. But these differences are so small, most people won’t notice anything.

Best 13C26 Steel Knives

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25. AUS-6 Steel

AUS 6 Steel

Japanese company Aichi Steel is known for its AUS lineup, which includes the AUS-6. We’ve already had a look at the AUS-8, now let’s see the AUS-6.

AUS-6 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.65%
  • Chromium 14.5%
  • Vanadium 0.25%
  • Nickel 0.49%
  • Manganese 1%
  • Silicon 1%

I’ve dubbed some of the steels we’ve looked at as “budget steels.” When it comes to the AUS-6 though, we’re talking about one of the cheapest steels around.

This steel isn’t as hard as the AUS-8, neither is it more corrosion resistant. It’s the lower version of the AUS-8.

Of course, it’s also cheaper. That’s why despite being worse off in almost every way, it’s still mass-produced. The price is this steel’s selling point.

Best AUS-6 Steel Knives

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26. K390 Steel

The K390 is Bohler Uddenholm’s carbon-steel. So far, we’ve mostly had a look at stainless steels. But this one is too good not to talk about it.

K390 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 2.47%
  • Chromium 4.2%
  • Molybdenum 3.8%
  • Vanadium 9%
  • Cobalt 2%
  • Silicon 0.55%
  • Manganese 0.4%
  • Tungsten 1%

The K390 isn’t a high-end steel by any means. However, it is a steel that is very long-lasting. It is so durable, you won’t have to replace it anytime soon.

Being durable does not mean corrosion-resistant though. Like carbon steel, you’ll have to take good care of this. Otherwise, it will be very quick to rust.

Best K390 Steel Knives

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27. 4116 Steel

Another cheap steel is 4116 steel. This steel is another type that you see all over the place. It’s so popular, you may even have a knife with this steel without knowing it.

4116 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.55%
  • Chromium 15%
  • Molybdenum 0.8%
  • Vanadium 0.2%

As you can tell by the high chromium level, this is a stainless steel knife. How good is it? Well, it is slightly better than the 420HC at resisting corrosion.

Other than that, this steel isn’t special in any way. It’s a cheap stainless steel that is mass-produced. Not something that gets knife enthusiasts like me excited.

Best 4116 Steel Knives

Last update on 2025-11-12 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API


28. 4034 Steel

Another cheapo that you may come across is the 4034 steel. Again, not a steel that gets anyone excited. But it does do its job. Full details

4034 Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 0.5%
  • Chromium 14.5%
  • Manganese 1%

As you can see, not a lot goes into this knife. It has just enough carbon to be decent steel, and just enough chromium to make it stainless.

So why mention it? Well, as I said, this steel is all over the place. And it does get the job done. It’s not like this steel is going to break when you slice something.

It’s not great, but it’s not the worst steel in the world for knives.

Best 4034 Steel Knives

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28. Damascus Steel

Last, but certainly not least, Damascus steel. Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve surely heard of this steel by now. It is one of the most well-known types of steel in the world. Even non-knife junkies know this.

Damascus Steel Composite Materials:

  • Carbon 1.6%
  • Manganese 0.56%
  • Phosphorous 0.107%
  • Sulfur 0.02%
  • Silicon 0.043%
  • Nickel 0.12%
  • Copper 0.048%
  • Vanadium 0.01%
  • Chromium 0.01%
  • Titanium 0.002%

Reading through the properties, you’ll notice that there’s a bunch of elements with tiny percentages. It may seem pointless, but these are what make Damascus steel unique.

The reason why everyone knows about this steel is because of its looks. Damascus steel is famous for its wavy patterns. These don’t add much in the way of functionality, but they are very beautiful to look at.

That’s why Damascus steel is a favorite for collectors like me. There’s something about the waves that really catch the eyes. That’s why I have a bunch of Damascus steel blades in my collection.

Best Damascus Steel Knives

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30. Martensitic Steel

Before I go, I wanted to mention martensitic steel. This isn’t a specific type of steel like H1 or M390. Instead, it is a lot broader.

There are four types of stainless steel, one of them is martensitic. Martensitic steels have the bare minimum amount of chromium for stainless steel. They also have relatively high amounts of carbon.

Because of this high carbon, martensitic steels can get quite hard. And this hardness is what makes them great for knives.

That’s why martensitic knives are all over the place. A big chunk of kitchen knives falls under this category. They have a great balance between hardness and stainlessness.

In case you were wondering, the other types of stainless steel are austenitic, duplex, and ferritic. They are also used as knives, but nothing quite beats martensitic when it comes to this.

Best Martensitic Steel Knives

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Conclusion

And there you have it! There are so many other types of steel out there that I couldn’t cover today. If I tried, this article would go on and on and on.

But rest assured, if you’ve reached this far, you now know a lot about the best steels for knives in the market today.

Learn More About Knife Steel:-

Can a Serrated Edge Knife Be Sharpened? 3 Techniques and Best Practices for Maintenance


Many people wonder if a serrated edge knife can be sharpened. The answer is yes, serrated knives can be sharpened, but it requires a different approach than sharpening a straight-edged knife. Using the right tools and techniques is essential to maintain the functionality of the serrated edge.

Serrated knives excel at slicing through tougher materials, but they can lose their effectiveness over time. When the tips of the serrations become dull, the knife makes uneven cuts and can even damage the food being prepared. Knowing how to properly sharpen these knives can extend their lifespan and improve cutting performance.

With the right method, anyone can restore a serrated knife to its former sharpness. This article will explore effective techniques and tools for sharpening serrated knives, ensuring they remain a valuable part of any kitchen.

Serrated Edge Knife

Understanding Knife Edges

Knife edges play a crucial role in cutting performance. Two main types are prevalent: serrated and plain edges. Each type has unique characteristics, benefits, and suitability for different tasks.

Types of Knife Edges

There are primarily two common types of knife edges: serrated edges and plain edges.

  • Serrated Edges feature a saw-like design with teeth. This allows them to grip and slice through tougher materials with ease. They excel at cutting food items like bread and tomatoes.
  • Plain Edges have a smooth surface, which makes them ideal for precision cuts. They are great for tasks that require control, such as peeling or preparing vegetables.

Each edge type serves distinct purposes, tailored to various cutting needs.

Benefits of Serrated Edges

Serrated edges offer several advantages, especially in specific cutting scenarios. The teeth on a serrated knife allow it to grip onto the material, reducing slippage while cutting.

  • They require less force, making them effective for slicing through tough items without applying excessive pressure.
  • Serrated knives tend to stay sharper longer than plain-edged knives when used on the appropriate materials, as the serrations can bear some wear.

This design is particularly useful for baked goods and fibrous foods.

Differences between Serrated and Plain Edges

The differences between serrated and plain edges are significant and impact their usage.

  • Cutting Technique: Serrated knives slice with a sawing motion, while plain edges cut in a straight line.
  • Sharpening: Plain edges can be honed and sharpened easily using a variety of tools. Serrated blades often require specialized sharpeners designed for the grooves.
  • Applications: Serrated edges are particularly suited for bread, soft fruits, and meats, while plain edges are preferred for tasks needing finesse such as slicing vegetables or meats.

Understanding these distinctions can help in selecting the right knife for a specific task.

Basics of Sharpening Serrated Knives

Sharpening serrated knives requires understanding their unique design. The process involves specific tools and careful techniques to maintain the integrity of the blade while ensuring effective cutting performance.

Anatomy of a Serrated Knife

A serrated knife features a blade with scalloped edges designed to cut through tougher materials. Each serration consists of a pointed tip and a sloped edge, allowing the knife to grip and slice efficiently.

The pointed tips penetrate surfaces, while the slopes provide a sawing action. This design distinguishes serrated knives from traditional straight blades, as maintaining sharpness involves addressing each serration individually.

Serrated knives are commonly used for cutting bread, tomatoes, and other foods with tough skins or crusts. Understanding this anatomy is crucial for effective sharpening, as it helps focus on the areas that need attention.

Tools Required for Sharpening

Using the right tools is essential for effectively sharpening serrated knives. Popular options include:

  • Serrated Knife Sharpener: These handheld devices are specifically designed for the notched edges.
  • Rod or Steel: A fine ceramic or diamond rod can fit into the serrations for precise sharpening.
  • Whetstone: A whetstone can also be used, requiring a more skilled approach to maintain the shape of the serrations.

When choosing tools, individuals should consider the knife’s size and the specific serration pattern. This ensures compatibility and effectiveness in the sharpening process, allowing for better performance and longevity.

Safety Precautions

Safety is paramount when sharpening serrated knives. Using the proper technique and maintaining focus can prevent accidents.

  • Stable Surface: Secure the knife on a stable surface, minimizing movement while sharpening.
  • Cut-Resistant Gloves: Wearing cut-resistant gloves protects hands from accidental slips.
  • Keep Away From Children: Store tools and serrated knives out of reach of children to prevent injuries.

Maintaining attention during the sharpening process helps avoid mishaps. Ensuring a safe environment allows for a more effective and stress-free sharpening experience.

Nakiri Vs Santoku Knife: The Battle of the Japanese Knives


Aspiring chefs who are getting around to learning more about Japanese knives will appreciate how they can improve your overall culinary skills. But for those who are unsure about which knife will be best, we’re comparing the Nakiri knife Vs Santoku knife.

This is so you get a better understanding of why each has an advantage over the other and what makes them so different when it comes to cutting.

What is the difference between Nakiri and Santoku knives?

While the only direct comparison between these two knives is that they both come from Japan, they are not intended to be used for the same purposes. If you already have basic chef skills or are learning about new additions to your knife collection, the main difference is their overall shape.

The Nakiri knife is very similar in appearance to a meat cleaver with an elongated rectangular appearance. It’s mainly used for straight-down chopping using a forward and downward slicing stroke. Often, this knife will have a hammered surface to reduce resistance while cutting.

The Santoku knife will appear similar to a Chef knife with a rounded point toward the tip. The blade is also slightly rounded with the center of the blade touching the cutting board first. This allows cutting that gives some degree of rocking up and down.

Both of these knives are meant for chopping and slicing depending on your preference and the need for accuracy. Because the visual appearance is so different, your choice may also be motivated by how these knives look and how they feel in your hand.

What is a Nakiri knife good for?

The shape of a Nakiri knife is best for straight-down slicing cuts on your cutting board. It’s best for making thin cuts, especially when cutting tender items like ripe tomatoes and delicate vegetables. Essentially it’s best used for cutting, chopping, dicing, and mincing veggies.

Because the Nakiri knife is sharpened on both edges, it makes sense to use this knife for vegetables and fruits that could deform using any other type of knife. It’s not recommended to chop frozen food or chop through bones.

It can be used to cut through meat and fish, however most chefs like the Nakiri for cutting vegetables to get clean and straight cuts where appearance matters the most. Because it has a shallow rectangular blade that tends to look like a mini cleaver, it’s perfect for fluid chopping.

What can I cut with Nakiri?

If you have many dense vegetables, the Nakiri knife will be a champion knife for this task. Since the shape of this knife often has a tip forward weight advantage, this gives Chefs better control of downward slicing and chopping for veggies.

This is perfect for chopping somewhat difficult items like onions that can be diced easily using a forward slicing with a slightly angled tip on each cut. The razor-sharp blade edge allows onions to be cut without experiencing separation between the onion layers.

It’s also perfect for cutting through larger vegetables like cabbage and turnips. If you love making coleslaw, the Nakiri knife makes perfect slices with very little resistance on each slice. When it comes to delicate herbs, this will mince and slice these soft and leafy ingredients easily.

It’s also a great show knife if you want to prepare your food in front of others. The stark look of this knife style further showcases the ingredients and items you’re preparing for stir fry or salads. Most people will be amazed that a knife that looks like a cleaver is used for precise cuts.

What is a Santoku knife best used for?

In terms of an all-purpose knife, the Santoku knife comes to the rescue in many cases. The translation of the word literally means Three Virtues’ in Japanese. This makes it perfect for chopping, dicing, and mincing.

Unlike the Nakiri, this knife will typically have a single sharpened edge instead of a dual-edge sharpened blade. This provides a thinner blade that is sharpened at 15 degrees and will perform a variety of tasks that include cutting meat, vegetables, fruits, herbs, and even nuts.

It slices through problematic dairy products including cheese that tend to make irregular cuts with other knives. The resulting slices are nice and clean but not good for very soft items like bread. It also should not cut through bone because of the thinner blade edge.

Since it’s so similar to a Chef knife it makes scooping up items from a cutting board just as easy. If you are looking to make very ornate and thin slices, the Santoku knife is best for aesthetically pleasing cuts on both veggies and fruits.

Can a Santoku replace a Chef’s knife?

In terms of general kitchen usage and the versatile nature of how Santoku knives are used, this can replace a Chef knife. It has a similar appearance and is perfectly balanced just like a Chef knife. In terms of personal style, the look alone is more reason to include this type of knife.

It won’t completely replace a Chef knife for many reasons since you might want a stronger blade for certain meats and dense vegetables using a Chef knife. When you want to have super clean cuts that are meant to keep your food presentation looking cleaner, the Santoku will be best.

What knife is best for cutting meat?

Obviously, both of these knives will do fine for cutting meat, aside from the part where a Santoku knife is better for slicing cooked meat. This will provide straight and clean cuts that are perfect for seafood as well. Preparing meat for dishes can use either type of knife alternatively.

If you are cutting fish such as salmon, the Santoku is obviously the best choice for getting the perfect cut each time. With a bit of practice, a Nakiri knife can still do a great job depending on your slicing style.

Nakiri Vs Santoku: Which knife is better?

The choice between these two knives is certainly a tough call for very obvious reasons. They are both great knives with different blade shapes and sharpened edges. They cut vegetables and fruits with expert results and will cut meat just as nicely.

The fact that these two knives are Japanese style can make an excellent addition to any custom chef knife collection. As any Chef who is looking for precision and something undeniably unique, adding a Nakiri or Santoku knife can improve your culinary standards.

The debate for comparing the Nakiri knife Vs Santoku knife is completely a matter of choice if you look at these knives from an aesthetic point of view. They’re both great knives that are versatile in the kitchen.

Swiss Army Vs Leatherman: 6 Astonishing Differences


When it comes to multi-tools there are only two brands to seriously consider – the Swiss Army knife (the original multi-tool) and the tools from Leatherman.

Standing head and shoulders above all other options on the market today, Swiss Army knives and Leatherman tools represent the very best of the best in the multi-tool space. At the same time, these companies couldn’t be any different and the folding tools and knives have a lot of differences between them.

If you’re trying to settle on a new Swiss Army knife or are thinking about picking up a Leatherman, but want to be sure that you make the right decision, you’ll want to read the inside information we highlight for you below.

Swiss Army Knife vs Leatherman
Swiss Army Knife vs Leatherman

Swiss Army Vs Leatherman

Before we dive into the nuts and bolts of comparing these multi-tool options against one another, let’s first touch on the history of these great companies.

Swiss Army knives have built an almost legendary reputation around the world. Their sleek, compact form factor, bright red color, and distinct cross and shield logo are instantly recognizable.

Victorinox, the company that produces the very first Swiss Army knife – for the Swiss Army – has been around 1884. This knife design (the original multi-tool) was patented in 1897 and is an obvious inspiration for Leatherman and everything they’ve built.

Unlike Victorinox, Leatherman does not have a 130+ year company history behind them.

This Portland, Oregon-based operation has been making Leatherman tools in the United States since 1983, though. Right from day one, these tools developed passionate fans that love the quality, utility, and convenience of a Leatherman.

Now that we have that out of the way, let’s figure out how do these multi-tools Stack up against one another.

Build Quality

If there’s one thing that both Swiss Army knives and Leatherman have in common, it has to be their dedication to using only the highest quality materials resulting in almost impeccable build quality.

Swiss Army knives are designed around a penknife-style handle with a central “sprung core” that allows all of the different tools and accessories to fold out from the middle. This design originated in 1884 and was really polished in 1897 (when the design was patented) and has been the foundation of all Swiss Army knives ever since.

These tools are made out of proprietary Inox stainless steel that the company helped to pioneer for their tools specifically. This material is known for its hardness, ability to take an edge and retain it, and for its completely rustproof finish.

Leatherman multi-tools are also made out of stainless steel – except for the screwdriver bits, which are made from tool steel.

The result is an almost bombproof multi-tool and knife option that could very well outlast you and the next generation you hand these tools down to.

Fit and Finish

Both companies spend a tremendous amount of time on research and development, prototyping new tool options, and making sure that every addition to their lineup works in concert with the rest of the multi-tool design.

Tolerances are very impressive across the board for both companies.

You’re never going to pick up a Swiss Army knife or a Leatherman and feel like it is loose, sloppy, or coming apart at the seams. These tools can stand up to a tremendous amount of use – and even abuse – and still function just like brand-new with very little care or maintenance.

Swiss Army knives and Leatherman tools are hardened to produce a resilient and corrosion-resistant surface. This helps to protect the already tough and durable stainless steel the tools are made out of.

These things aren’t going to fail you anytime soon.

Tool Diversity

While Swiss Army knives and Leatherman tools feature pretty similar materials and overall build quality, they stand apart from one another quite a bit when it comes to tool diversity.

Swiss Army knives are, after all, pocketknives first and foremost.

That’s the platform that these multi-tools were built on top of originally more than 130 years ago and it’s still the core DNA of these tools. Swiss Army knives are always going to be knives first, with other tools and accessories kind of taking a backseat.

Leatherman multi-tool, though, is primarily a multi-tool straight out of the gate.

These tools are built around a quality pair of pliers, with knife blades and other tools and accessories folding out from the flyer handles. Everything stems from the main plier tool format, though.

While there are a handful of exceptions for both companies, you pretty much know what you are going to get into when you go shopping for a Swiss Army knife or a Leatherman.

Leatherman tools have been able to squeeze more accessories and more options into the plier format without decreasing utility than Swiss Army knives have been able to. There comes a point where pocketknives are just too fat in the hand that they become difficult and uncomfortable to use.

The plier design of a Leatherman lets them pack a lot more “under the hood”, which means there’s a lot more model diversity for this brand than there is in the Swiss Army lineup.

If you’re after a pocketknife with multi-tool options, something relatively compact and somewhat limited in comparison, a Swiss Army knife is going to be more attractive.

If, however, you want to have all your tools and the kitchen sink at your disposal in a relatively compact plier format you can’t go wrong with a Leatherman.

Practicality

On the practicality side of things, it’s hard not to fall in love with Leatherman tools compared to Swiss Army knives – even the bigger, more feature-rich options.

Sure, Swiss Army knives started the multi-tool industry and were far and away the most useful pocket tool on the market right up until Leatherman came along.

As soon as Leatherman introduced their plier format multi-tools, though, the game changed completely.

Swiss Army knives are compact, generally pretty lightweight, and have to fit comfortably in one hand to use the tools available. The pocketknife form factor of Swiss Army knives eventually means that there’s a ceiling on just how big these tools can get.

Stay slim and compact (but somewhat limited with your features) and these things are a dream to use. Start to bulk up, though, and the most feature-rich Swiss Army knife can become a real headache to try and manipulate – especially in conditions that aren’t picture-perfect.

Leatherman multi-tools, on the other hand, can be a lot larger. That means larger tools can be included and more of them. The folding plier setup also makes these easy to use with either one of your hands without the tool ever feeling chunky or unwieldy.

The Leatherman product run gets the nod in this department.

Durability and Longevity

Both of these manufacturers take their tools and their reputation very, very seriously.

Victorinox, the people behind the Swiss Army knife, has been able to build and grow a business for more than 130 years on the back of these pocketknife multi-tools. You’re not going to have that kind of success – generational success – unless you are making quality products that people trust.

All of the knives and multi-tools made by Victorinox are made from only the highest quality materials (their own proprietary stainless steel, as we mentioned a moment ago). More than that, though, all of their products are backed completely by a lifetime guarantee.

You know your investment in a Swiss Army knife is going to be protected. You never risk any of your cold hard cash when you snap up one of these pocketknife multi-tools.

Leatherman also stands by their products, though they only have a 25-year warranty on tools that have failed because of material defects or workmanship issues.

That’s not quite the safety blanket for outdoorsmen, sportsmen, and professionals that rely on their multi-tool on a day-to-day basis when compared to Victorinox and their warranty. But it’s still better than most of the rest of the industry.

Another cool thing about Leatherman is that they will replace any of their, discontinued multi-tool models with the newest model possible if their product fails within this warranty window.

There have been stories about Leatherman “stretching” the warranty window a little bit as well, making sure that their customers are taken care of even if the 25-year timeline has passed. Their customer service has always been top-notch and that’s something to consider.

Even still, we have to admit that Swiss Army knives have a better warranty just because of their lifetime nature.

Value

It’s tough to compare these tools based on price alone if only because the most bare-bones and basic Swiss Army knife (something like the “Spartan”, for example) has no direct comparison to a bare-bones and basic Leatherman.

That’s why we decided to focus on value instead.

For the money that you’re spending you can usually get a little more functionality and a little more utility out of a Leatherman than you could a Swiss Army knife.

This isn’t to say that Swiss Army knives aren’t quality purchases. It doesn’t suggest that you should steer clear of these options or that they are overpriced.

Not at all.

We are just saying that the functionality, utility, and overall practicality of similarly priced Leatherman tools outpace comparable Swiss Army knives.

Swiss Army Knife Strengths and Weaknesses

The biggest reasons to get your hands on a Swiss Army knife over a Leatherman would be because of its “pocketknife first” design and the lightweight, portable nature of these tools.

Even the most bare-bones Leatherman is still going to be a pretty bulky tool. It’s going to be heavy, it’s sometimes going to be clumsy to wield (especially if all you need is a pocketknife), and it’s going to take up a lot more space on your belt, pocket, or pack.

On the flip side of things, this same pocketknife’s first design and the lightweight/portable nature of Swiss Army knives means that they become big, bulky, and uncomfortable to use when you start to stuff more and more multi-tools in them.

At a certain point, these things just become too big to handle comfortably, and that makes them a little less practical and a little less reliable.

Last update on 2025-11-07 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Leatherman Strengths and Weaknesses

Leatherman tools, on the other hand, are sort of like a miniature toolbox on your belt.

The plier design makes them super useful, very strong and leaves lots of room in the handles for full-size (or close to it) tools to fold right out and lock into position.

That said, these tools are always bigger, always bulkier, and always heavier than a Swiss Army knife. You’re never going to slide a Leatherman in your front pocket and have it disappear.

Breaking out a Leatherman to whittle down a branch for s’mores is overkill in a way that using a Swiss Army knife isn’t. You’re not going to want to use a Swiss Army knife to clean fish or cut into a camp sandwich, either.

Last update on 2025-11-07 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Final Verdict

At the end of the day, choosing between a Swiss Army knife and a Leatherman boils down to what you want out of your new multi-tool and how you expect to use it going forward.

Swiss Army knives are incredible little pocket knives.

The blades can be sharpened to a razor’s edge and are compact enough to be comfortable when folded up in your pocket but big enough to use at home, at work, and around a campfire reliably.

The most popular Swiss Army knives also find a way to balance size with utility. They’re never too big, they’re never too bulky, and they always fit comfortably in your pocket and your hand.

Leatherman tools, on the other hand, are tough to beat when you want to have an arsenal of almost full-sized tool options on your belt.

The pliers these tools are focused around are some of the best in the business. Leatherman could probably sell just their folding pliers alone and make a mountain of money – that’s how good they are!

While a little heavier and a bit bulkier, these tools are super well-made and engineered to last a lifetime and then some. Don’t be surprised if you’re handing down a Leatherman you used daily to the next generation.

Regardless of whether you decide to snap up a new Swiss Army knife or a Leatherman make sure you order them from reputable sources.

Because these tools are so popular there are a lot of counterfeits out there, cheap knockoffs that look like the real deal but will only frustrate you and fail a whole lot faster than the real deal would have.

Truth be told, if it was up to us (and you have the budget) you’d get your hands on one of each – a relatively simple Swiss Army knife and a full-featured Leatherman.

The Ultimate Truth: Are Buck Knives Made In China?


Buck Knives is perhaps the most popular knife brand in the US. It has been making reliable, high-quality knives since the early twentieth century and boasts a diverse collection of knives of different types and models.

Some of Buck Knives’ knives are made in China. However, only a small percentage of its knives are made in China while the majority are produced in the US. The company aims to make all of its knife models in the US in the near future.

Read on to find out if your buck knife was made in China or not!

Are buck knives made in China
image by [James Case] via Flickr | CC BY 2.0

Are Buck Knives Made In China?

This is one of the most common questions people have about Buck knives. Are they made in China? Or are they made in the US? While some are made in China, most of them are manufactured in the US in Idaho, whereas a small number of them are made overseas, particularly in China.

Buck Knives makes a plethora of different types of knives and most of those models are made in the US. Buck Knives is working hard to shift its entire production and manufacturing process to the US. Each year, fewer knives are being made overseas. 

Buck knives usually have the name of the country they were manufactured in stamped on the blade. So blades will have either “China” or “USA” on them.

Are Buck knives made in the US?

The majority of Buck Knives’ models are made in the US. The company is striving to make all its knife models in the US and it’s getting closer to its goal with each passing year. Each year, more and more models are being made in the US. According to some estimates, about 80 to 85 percent of Buck knives are produced in the US.

Models that are made in the US have “USA” stamped on their blades. Check out this guide for more information on which models are made in the US and which are manufactured overseas.

A brief history of Buck knives

The Buck Knives brand has a long and interesting history and has been producing Buck knives since the early twentieth century. According to its website, the first Buck knife was produced by Hoyt Buck in 1902. Hoyt and his son produced high-quality knives under the brand H.H. Buck and Son that were popular during World War II and the post-war era.

In 1961, the brand was incorporated as Buck Knives, Inc. Later, in 1964, the business introduced the Model 110 Folding Hunter knife, which became highly popular and shot the company to fame, making it a reliable and leading name in the knife industry.

The reins of the business have been passed down from generation to generation and the current CEO is the 4th generation family member to run it. The brand has enjoyed great success since its inception in the mid-twentieth century and is currently one of the biggest and most popular knife brands in the country.

What kinds of Buck knives are available?

There are many different models of Buck knives that you can buy. These models are divided into three types: fixed blade knives, folding knives, and pocket knives.

Fixed blade knives, as their name implies, consist of a solid blade attached securely to the handle. Fixed blade knives are generally stronger and heavier than folding knives and are better suited for tough jobs such as camping tasks and other field uses. 

Folding knives are more compact than fixed blade ones and are easier and safer to carry. The opening and closing methods in folding knives can vary and usually depend on the model. Some folding knives can also lock and use a number of different locking mechanisms to do so.

Pocket knives are the most compact type of the three and are highly versatile. They can serve a variety of uses and use different opening and closing mechanisms.

How many different blade shapes do Buck knives come in?

Buck knives come in a variety of different blade shapes. Different blade shapes work well for different purposes and choosing the right blade shape is important when buying a knife. Here are some of the most popular shapes:

  1. Skinner: This shape works great for skinning game. The body of the blade is wide and curved whereas the tip is narrow.
  2. Drop point: This shape has a wide belly and a thick and strong tip. It is best suited for heavy, tough jobs.
  3. Pen: Pen blades are small, spear point blades that can serve a multitude of uses. This shape is commonly used in pocket knives.
  4. Tanto: Tanto blades are very strong and have a narrow, pointed tip and a narrow belly. They are one of the best blades for working with tough materials.
  5. Clip: This blade has a thin, sharp tip in the shape of a crescent. This blade shape is ideal for detail work. While the blade is perfect for detail work, it isn’t quite durable or strong.

To discover more about the different blade shapes Buck knives come in, check out Buck Knives’ own guide on its website here.

What locking mechanisms do folding Buck knives have?

Interestingly, folding Buck knives have different folding mechanisms. Here are some of them:

Lockback. As the name implies, the blade in these folding knives can be locked into position if it is opened fully. To close the blade, the rocker on the handle is pushed. 

Frame lock. In a frame lock, the locking mechanism is actually located in the handle frame on the side of the knife. It can be opened and closed with one hand and has fewer moving parts.

Liner lock. A liner lock operates using a metal liner located in the handle. The blade locks if it is fully opened and can be closed by pressing and pushing the liner to the left.

Strong Lock System. This is a relatively new locking mechanism that uses a metal bar on the back frame of the knife as a lock. The blade is opened using a flipper and can be closed by lifting the metal bar. 

What materials are Buck knives made of?

Different Buck knives are made using different blades and handle materials. We’ll look at both in detail.

When it comes to the blade material, there are usually three kinds of steel Buck Knives uses:

  1. 154CM steel: This steel has a high carbon content, is harder, and has high edge retention.
  2. 420HC steel: A strong stainless steel that is fairly rust-resistant and easy to re-sharpen.
  3. S30V steel: This is a kind of stainless steel that has an edge retention higher than 154CM steel.

For the handles, rubber, wood, metal, and Micarta can be used. Rubber provides a great grip while wood is durable and can produce aesthetically pleasing handles. Handles made from composite materials provide a good combination of durability and grip.

How to choose the best Buck knife for yourself?

Since Buck knives come in many different types and models that are best suited for different purposes, choosing the right Buck knife for yourself is important. Here are a few things you need to keep in mind if you plan on getting a Buck knife.

Intended use. You’ll have to decide what you need the knife for and what features it should have based on your activities.

Type (fixed blade vs folding vs pocket knife). Again, this depends on what you’ll be using your knife for and how compact you want it to be.

Blade shape and thickness. Different blade shapes are used for different purposes. Thicker blades are used for heavy-duty tasks. Blades with thin, narrow points are better suited for detail work.

Weight. Lighter knives are easy to carry around. Heavier knives aren’t as portable but are more powerful.

Check out the top seller on Amazon.com

Last update on 2025-11-06 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Tips for taking care of your Buck knife

Keeping your Buck knife in prime condition is important. It prevents the knife from being damaged and extends its life. Here are some things you can do to take good care of your knife so that it works smoothly.

  1. Prevent the knife from being exposed to moisture – keep it dry. Moreover, frequently clean the blade and the handle.
  2. Oil the pivot points and the blade when needed.
  3. Ensure that all the moving parts and locking mechanism are working fine. Keep all these parts clean.
  4. Sharpen your knife regularly since a sharper knife is more safe than a dull one.
  5. If your Buck knife has been damaged in some way, send it to Buck Knives for repair. Avoid trying to fix it yourself.

Tips for sharpening your Buck knife

Keeping your Buck knife in good working condition is very important – and that includes sharpening it regularly. Here are a few tips to help you get started.

  1. For inconsistent edges, for very dull blades, use a coarse grit sharpener. This is known as heavy sharpening and should be done at an angle of about 14 degrees for each side.
  2. For medium sharpening for dull blades, use a medium grit sharpener at 14 degrees for each side. This effectively sharpens the blade and removes any scratches. You can also use honing fluid.
  3. For fine sharpening, use a fine grit sharpener or a natural stone and stroke lightly. Honing fluid can also be used.

These three stages of sharpening are usually performed in this order, from heavy sharpening to fine sharpening. Make sure you have the necessary equipment before you get started with sharpening.

What is Buck Knives’ forever warranty?

Buck Knives has a great warranty policy for its knives known as “forever warranty.” The warranty claims that every Buck knife will be highly durable and will have no defects in either build quality or the materials used for the duration of its life. The company advises users against using its knives as chisels, screwdrivers, or hammers.

Buck Knives states that it will replace or repair your defective Buck knife. They will provide you with a new Buck knife if your old one is defective and cannot be repaired. If, however, the knife is damaged due to incorrect use by the customer, the company will repair it for a certain fee.

In a nutshell, Buck Knives’ forever warranty is pretty cool, and its return and exchange policy are quite reasonable as well.

How to send your Buck knife for service

If you want to get your Buck knife serviced or repaired, you can send it to Buck Knives and claim your warranty. Here are the steps you need to follow.

  1. Clean and prepare the knife for shipment. According to Buck Knives’ policies, the knife must be free of dirt, blood, and other materials.
  2. Securely pack the knife so that it can not move around in the package. Original packaging and the sales receipt are not required. If you’re sending a fixed blade knife, put it in its sheath.
  3. Get Buck Knives’ warranty repair form from its website. Get it printed and fill in all the necessary details. 
  4. Pack the knife with the warranty form and send the package to Buck Knives. The shipping label is available on its website here.

For more details about sending your knife to Buck Knives, check out its website or contact its customer support via phone or email.

Final Thoughts

Buck knives are popularly known for their exceptional build quality, reliability, and durability. For a company that has been producing high-quality knives since the early twentieth century, it isn’t difficult to see why. While the majority of its knives are proudly made in the US, some models are produced overseas, particularly in China. However, the company is striving to shift its entire production to the US in the near future.

Comprehensive Guide: What is a Coffin Handle Knife?


Everyone knows about the Bowie knife, but what many don’t know is that one was used to showcase a new kind of handle with seriously sinister aesthetics. We’re talking, of course, about the ‘coffin handle’, whose beauty and practicality would lead the design to be copied and used even into the modern day.

So, what is a coffin handle knife? Well, it boils down to a practical design, typically consisting of a flat, wooden handle, robustly secured by 4 rivets on each side, and featuring 3 distinct angles that created an overall ‘coffin’ shape for the design. With its grave good looks and left-or-right-handed versatility, this design was definitely a keeper.

In today’s article, we’re going to explore this design in a little more detail, so that you’ll know a little about its composition, the history behind it, how they are made, and the overall pros and cons. There’s a reason that this design is still popular, so read on and we’ll tell you all about it!

coffin-handle-knife
image by [Public.Resource.Org] via Flickr | CC BY 2.0

What is a coffin handle knife?

When you hear the term ‘coffin handle’, you are enjoying one of the rare examples of a term that provides you with all you need to know, with the fat and flowery language neatly trimmed.

A coffin handle is exactly what it sounds like – it’s two flat pieces of wood, secured to reliable immobility by 4 rivets on each side, with the distinctive triple-angle of a funerary coffin at the base, and a squared, box-like length for the shaft.

Often there is a delicate contour to help ‘lock’ it in your hand and the elegant simplicity of the design (along with the grave symbolism it immediately invokes) serves as the perfect companion to a well-forged blade.

With such a wide grip, owners of a coffin handled knife have a lot of room for handling, and the simplistic shaping doesn’t limit the blade to being used with only your dominant hand. You could easily slip it from one hand to the other, handling it with relative ease, and this further added to the design’s popularity.

When you add in that the design itself means that the handle is not coming off (unless you toss it into a woodchipper, and even then, we’re betting it mostly sticks), the coffin handle was a surefire recipe for a way to hold your knife that wouldn’t loosen or otherwise betray you when you needed it.

Simple, elegant, and aptly named – it’s a handle shaped like a coffin, after all – it’s an antique design that’s so good that we simply had to keep it and you’ll find modern examples on knives all around the world!

History of Coffin handle knives

A blacksmith named James Black, who lived between the years of 1800 and 1872, set up a shop in the Arkansas territory in a town called Washington in the year 1830. The New Jersey native brought some serious skills to the table, as well, and he gets the credit for the first coffin handle knives which were used with the popular Bowie-style blades.

While we can’t say it for certain, many historians believe that Jim Bowie himself commissioned one or two knives from this master blacksmith, though we can say with certainty that his work travelled far and wide because of an archaeological discovery found in Texas.

In what was determined to be an early campsite used by the Mexican army, archaeologists found a blackened and rusted coffin blade Bowie knife. Dating the piece indicated that it was likely lost around the year 1836, when Black would have been 36 years old himself and well into his knifemaking prime.

These days, Blacks innovative coffin handled Bowies are considered prize pieces in museum collections scattered around the United States and the design that was considered the ultimate companion to the fierce Bowie blade continues to be a popular handle choice to this day.

How are coffin handles made?

Coffin handles are solidly made, and the process is not very complicated at all. Essentially, what you need is a prerequisite of 8 holes in the tang, consisting of a set of 4 holes evenly spaced on either side of it, along with the adhesive of your choice, and 2 slabs of wood sufficient to exceed the tang’s length.

The slabs are cut, sanded, and lovingly shaped into the infamous ‘coffin’ pattern, and before they are secured in place by driving in the riveting pins, the tang is coated with the adhesive of your choice, so that the resulting handle is fixed and virtually immovable.

The end result is a handle that is beautiful, practical, and is not going to budge when you find need to draw and use your knife. We should clarify at this point that coffin handles aren’t simply for bowies, but have been incorporated into other knife designs as well and you’ll even see variations on other knives.

With throwing knives, for instance, the coffin handle is an excellent choice, as it is firmly secured to the point that it won’t adversely affect the flight of the knife to its target. Furthermore, the triple-angle that gives it it’s distinct coffin shape, is not pointing outward at the base, but rather inwards towards the center of the blade.

With throwing blades, this for proper center and balance, and offers throwers a handle that is not only practical, but adds to the functionality. Remember: Weight is equal to mass times acceleration, so this handle increases the weight of the balanced knife so that it hits with a lot more ‘punch and pierce’.

In most cases, handles simply aren’t practical with throwing knives, and so that tang is simply widened to make it all of one piece, often with cloth wrapping to provide a better grip. With these knives, the coffin handle was definitely a game changed, as it offered a superior grip and delivery in an elegant, secure package.

Coffin handle knives: The Pros

As coffin handle knives have been around since the early 1800s, there are obviously some advantages to go with the design. While you can certainly find ‘fancy’ handles that just there to look good, such designs tend to go away quickly in favor of the ones that actually improve and enhance the use of the blade.

We would be amiss if we didn’t give you a breakdown of what the coffin handle design brings to the table, so let’s take look first at those advantages to that you can have a better mental picture of why this design has been sticking around for so long.

Aesthetics

Let’s face it – a knife handle shaped like a coffin really says it all. It gives a grace to show and to handle your beautiful blade that looks amazing, while symbolically broadcasting the knife’s ultimate purpose, and it doesn’t ‘showboat’ by taking away from the beauty of the blade.

Like it or not, aesthetics are important, because a knife is a blend of practically, efficiency, and grace, to the point that many of us have seen and even purchased blades that were housed in an unworthy handle, brought them home, and replaced the impractical eyesores when we got them there.

A handle needs to be practical above all else but there is absolutely no reason that it can’t look good too, and the coffin handle is a perfect example of form and function married in a manner that is just about perfect.

Left or right-handed grip/Versatility

Some knife handles meet the basic requirements of form and function, but lack versatility. Have you ever found what appears, at first glance, to be the perfect blade – but then realized you can’t switch hands quickly if you need to?

With a coffin handled knife, light contours will allow the grip to lock into place, but the simple symmetry of the design allows you to switch it between hands quickly and efficiently and you won’t need to rotate it in place to fit that opposite hand.

This is a very important thing if you even have to use the knife in a defense scenario.

With other handle designs, you’d need to back off and adjust for a brief period to get a proper lock and control over the knife and in a worst-case scenario, that could literally cost you your life. In the heyday of Bowie knifes people were using their blades every day and the coffin handle just made good, solid sense.

In whatever hand you chose to use it, that coffin handle would be a perfect fit and no extra handling would be required to use it to full and devastating effect.

Longevity

When it comes to a handle that you can attach and not have to worry about for a long time, you’d be hard put to find one that does a better job than a coffin handle.

Not only it is securely riveted into place on both sides, but adhesive applied beforehand essentially cement it into place and it lasts long into the foreseeable future. One of the reasons that this design is still popular is that there’s never been a need to really innovate or change it – it works.

While you might decide to replace is from eventual chips or nicks that downgrade the appearance of the shiny hardwood handle, such a replacement is not something that you will need to think about for years.

This is a big deal for a lot of us who know that sometimes those ‘flashy’ handle options will function well but need to be replaced often in our lifetimes.

With the coffin handle, once affixed it’s going to do its job and look good doing it, and if you ever have to replace it then there’s likely going to be an amazing story behind it. These handles simply don’t budge and short of throwing your knife into an industrial woodchipper, you might not ever have to replace that handle.

Coffin handle knives: The Cons

No design is perfect, otherwise there’s only be one type of handle for every knife you see, and the coffin handle design is certainly no exception. In the interest of fairness, we’re going to list the caveats that come with a coffin handle so that you can weight them against the perks and see what you think.

Without further ado – let’s look at the ‘cons’ of the coffin!

Comfort

While a coffin handle is intensely practical and easy on the eyes it’s not necessarily the most comfortable way to handle a knife for prolonged use. This is unavoidable and kind of a side-effect of having a handle so firmly secured and distinctly shaped.

The rectangular portion of the blade, firmly rooted to the tang, is going to ‘cut’ into the muscles of your hand – not in a way that actually cuts you – but as an angular focus of pressure into your hand muscles.

For quick use, this is not a problem, but if you’re using the blade all day on a camping outing then you’ll have a distinctive type of muscle soreness, at least until you adjust to frequent and prolonged usage.

Control

Control is a mixed bag with the coffin handle design. On the one end, it’s a long and thinned design that allows you a lot of leeway in which hand you use and where you are holding the blade.

In that aspect, you get some great control, but with other handle types that are more customized for your grip you will likely have a little more. With practice, this is not necessarily a problem, but even with some clever contours to improve your grip, a coffin handle will not have as much control as a fully- customized grip.

In all fairness, though, as a ‘one size fits all’ for efficiency and control, it’s still a pretty fantastic design.

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Final Thoughts

Today we’ve answered the question ‘what is a coffin handle knife’ and as you can see, it’s exactly what it sounds like. Designed around the 1820’s-30’s, a coffin handle is simply two slabs of wood, glued and firmly riveted into place, with a distinct 3-angle design so that it resembles a funerary coffin.

While you’ll see it mostly on Bowies, as blacksmith James Black was said to have been commissioned by Jim Bowie himself, the utility and dashing good looks of this option have ensured that it’s incorporated into other blade styles all around the world.

It’s easy to see why – coffin handles are durable, immovable, and versatile, but let’s face it – they also clearly imply what might happen should you attempt to harm its owner.

It’s hard to find a message more plain and direct than a knife that you hold with a ‘coffin’!

How to Make a Stacked Leather Knife Handle? 6 Easy Steps


Knife handles are made of different materials. Some are made of synthetic materials, others are made of natural primitive ones, such as Wood, metal, or even leather.

What is a Stacked Leather Knife Handle?

You might have seen knives or even axes with leather striped handles and thought how unique and natural their look is. Those handles are the ones we call stacked leather handles. While in the modern days many knife makers choose to use a variety of materials for their knives, this stacked leather knife handle will always remain one of my favorites.

Of all the Knife handles I have used, the stacked leather is the most comfortable and long-lasting handle I have ever come across. They have a non-slippery primitive grip that makes them stand out. In addition, it is also a great way to use scraps or thick leather instead of disposing of them.

So, have you ever thought of making one yourself? Or perhaps you want to re-do an old stacked leather knife handle?

There are several methods to achieve the desired results, but the one I introduce here is one of the unique methods that was used the same way these knives’ handles were created ages ago.

While it’s fair to say that making stacked leather Knife handles is not complicated, it will demand specific tools, and skills and will consume time and money as well to buy some of the needed materials.

Let me list down the steps before we start to simplify the process:

Step by step:  How to make a stacked leather knife handle?

Step 1: Materials & Tools

Having the right tools and materials before you kick off your project is essential. The estimated time for the project is about six (6) hours excluding the drying time. The suggestions of the tools and materials should not limit your creativity as you might substitute any of them with what you have around or other similar alternatives.

Materials:

  • A Knife blade
  • Thick Leather (Preferably 1/8” thick)
  • Bolsters material (they can be plastic, wood, brass, or any other preference)
  • Elmer’s Glue (Any PVA Glue or non-toxic Wood Glue)

Tools:

  • Carpet/Razor Knife
  • Rotary tool with Drill bits (Preferably DREMEL or DeWALT)
  • Hammer
  • Sanding Machine
  • Sandpaper with grits of 100,200,400,600 and 1000
  • Leather or Wood Wax (Other Sealants can be used as well)
  • Figure Saw (To cut the leather pieces)

Step 2: Choosing the blade

The Blade is going to be the foundation of the project. In order to have a beautiful stacked leather knife handle that looks magnificent, we need to have a knife, don’t we? If you already have a knife blade that is lying around you, make sure that the tang is long enough and quite slim to stack the leather pieces on it. The thicker blades would need wider leather pieces and a larger strip hole to be punctured. (See the below guide).

Stacked Leather Knife

If you don’t have a blade around that fits this project, consider buying one. I find it, sometimes, easier to just buy the blank blade than to work around an older one. There are many options online for low as $15 to $20, depending on the steel type.

I would suggest getting this Bowie Knife Blade with a 12” Overall Length.

Remember to thread the end of the knife, so that you can screw the pommel later on. (see below)

Stacked Leather Knife handle
Stacked Leather Knife handle

It is essential to maintain safety when attempting this project. You should cover the sharp edge of your blade with a material such as masking tape to avoid cuts and injuries and prevent any damage to the blade.

Step 3: Preparing the leather pieces

Before cutting the leather bits, you want to decide first on the width of the handle depending on your comfort. The size of the leather bits will also depend on the width of your handle but approximately it will be around 1.5” X 1.5”. Add ¼” safety margin on top of that.

Trace the above measurements and cut one out. You can use this as a template to cut all the other pieces. The number of bits you need will depend on the length of your tang and the thickness of the leather. It’s wise to cut extra few pieces. Don’t forget to draw the center hole using your tang to trace it out.

Make a hole in each leather piece. While you can use a drill to punch a hole, a special tool, such as a drill press, would make your life easier. What’s crucial is to be consistent and ensure all the leather bits are all aligned.

Stacked Leather Knife Handle

Step 4: Assemble the leather pieces to the tang

To start assembling the lather bits, you will first need a solid piece at each end of the leather stack. These are called Bolsters.

Your bolsters can be anything from plastic, wood, brass, or any other preference but bear in mind that although it’s required to be solid and hard, we need it to be soft enough to be shaped and sanded along with the leather stack.

Stacked Leather Knife handle

Both bolsters should be a bit longer than the leather bits, but the top one should be a bit longer than the bottom one to make a finger guard.

Insert the top bolster and begin dry stacking the leather. At this stage, I don’t add any glue; however, this is to make sure that everything fits perfectly before adding the glue. It should look terrible but that’s ok.

If everything fits perfectly, disassemble it again. And repeat the same process but this time dip each in the PVA glue on one of the leather bit sides.  

Stacked Leather Knife handle
Stacked Leather Knife handle

Screw in the pommel or the bottom bolsters and let it dry.

Step 5: Saw and Sand the excess leather

Put your figure saw to work and start cutting the excess leather. Make sure that you start this process only after the glue has dried out. You can also use a sanding machine with 100 grit sanding paper.

Once you reached the desired rounded handle shape, begin using sandpaper of different grits to achieve the final shape according to your comfort.

Step 6: Polish and final retouches

We will add the wax to a rotary sanding machine to have the final shiny look. This is a leather burnishing technique, which makes the wax melt into the leather due to heat and friction. Polish till you are satisfied with the final look.

Congratulations!!! You have made it. This stacked leather knife handle will last longer and will have a good grip if you have sweaty hands.

Last update on 2025-11-09 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API