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What Are India Sharpening Stones? Guide for Different Grit Levels


What Are India Sharpening Stones?

As your love for knives continues to grow, so will your love for sharpening them. Keeping our knives razor-sharp is something we all want. That’s why if you have a lot of knives, knife sharpening is sure to become your hobby. It’s something that happens to all knife enthusiasts.

What you might not expect though, and I certainly didn’t, is that you will also learn to love the sharpening stones you use. As I’ve said before, sharpening stones have a world of their own. It’s a wonderful world where there is a lot to learn and try.

We’ve already had a look at carborundum stones, now we’re going to have a look at India stones. This is easily one of my favorite sharpening stones around, and you’ll see why. So without any further adieu, let’s dive in and explore the wonderful world of India stones.

What are India Sharpening Stones?

Contrary to their name, India stones don’t have anything to do with the South Asian country. It was not invented there, nor is it produced there today. Instead, this is the trade name of Norton’s aluminum oxide sharpening stones. These are one of the most popular sharpening stones around. They’re so popular, you may even have one without knowing it!

India stones come in orange, tan, or brown. And unlike some other sharpening stones, India stones are manmade. It is made by chemically combining aluminum with oxygen. These stones are generally considered to be the middle ground between soft and hard oil stones. On one end is the soft Arkansas stones, while on the other is the very hard carborundum stones. In the middle of both of these is the India stone.

What does this mean? It means that India stones can cut quite fast, but they are also very good at polishing. If you have a hard sharpening stone, this can sharpen your knives in no time. But the finish won’t be very fine, there will always be some coarseness. On the other end, soft stones can give a very smooth and sharp finish. The only problem with them is that they have a hard time sharpening dull blades.

India stones are in the middle ground. You can use them for both sharpening and polishing as well. They aren’t the best for both of these, but they hold up very well. If you could only have one sharpening stone, this is the one I would recommend.

The best part? India stones are not expensive. For stone collectors, getting expensive stones is not a problem at all. But if you are looking for a stone that can do it all and not cost so much, the India stone will be perfect for you. Despite having a dozen of different stones, my India stone is still one of my most used ones. In terms of performance, few are as all-round as this one.

Another great thing about India stones is how long they last. Being oilstones, they will always last longer than water stones. Even if you sharpen a lot, you won’t need to flatten your India stone anytime soon. They aren’t the hardest stones around, but they are hard alright. They are hard enough to withstand anything you throw at it.

What Grit are Norton India Stone?

Whenever you shop for sharpening stones, you’ll usually find grit levels on the stones. Grit levels can go anywhere from 100 all the way up to the thousands. The lower the grit level, the coarser the stone is. Low-grit stones can sharpen very fast, but they also leave a coarse finish. On the other end, the high grit level stones have smooth surfaces. These are the stones that can leave a very smooth and sharp finish on your knives.

These grit levels are helpful to understand what you should use the stone for. However, when you are buying India stones, you will find that they don’t indicate the grit level by these numbers. To make things even more confusing, Norton offers 3 different grit levels for their India stones. They label these levels as coarse-grit, medium-grit, and fine stones. So you’ll surely be wondering, where do these stack up in the numerical grit level?

Grid Score
Coarse150
Medium240
Fine400

The coarse-grit India stone has a grit score of around 150. It is quite coarse, and you can use this to quickly sharpen dull blades. The medium-grit is at about 240, making it the middle ground of middle grounds. Finally, the fine stone India stone has a grit of 400, making it great for polishing work.

What I like to use are double-sided India stones. These stones have a coarse grit on one side, and a medium on the other. This makes it very easy to sharpen and polish your knife. Once I’m done getting the sharpness back into the blade, I can flip the stone and work on the finishing touches. A double-sided India stone makes things a lot easier and faster.

You Can check Our Recommended Norton Sharpening Stone Kit Here

How do you sharpen a knife with a Norton stone?

One of the reasons why some people believe that all sharpening stones are the same is because they are all used the same way. If you have an India stone, you can use this just like you would any other stone. However, there are a few things you should keep in mind when you are doing this. Let’s have a close look at how exactly to sharpen using India stones.

The first thing you should keep in mind is that this is an oil stone. This means that before every sharpening session, you need to oil it first. This brings up the question, what oil should you use?

When it comes to oiling oil stones, the general rule is that you want to use thin and odorless oil. What I like to use is honing oil. Honing oil is perfect for India stones because this is exactly what this oil was made for. It is thin, it won’t clog your sharpening stone, and it is completely odorless as well.

If you don’t have honing oil around, mineral oil is your best option. Any mineral oil that isn’t too thick and doesn’t have an odor will do. If you have baby oil around, this is one of the best mineral oils to use for your India stone. If you don’t have any mineral oil either, any kind of oil will work, but there are some risks. The problem with using something like vegetable oil though is that it can clog up your India stone. Also, it could give your stone a terrible smell. You’ll have to sharpen your knives with your nose closed if this happens!

Once your Norton India stone is oiled, you can begin sharpening. Place your India stone down on a flat surface. You want to make sure that your stone doesn’t move around while you are sharpening. Then take your knife with two hands and gently stroke this against your India stone. As always, use slow and gentle strokes. India stones are not the hardest of stones, but you still want to be careful.

After a few strokes, feel for a burr. Once the burr appears, your knife is now sharp and ready to go. Wipe your India stone clean to avoid clogging and prolong its life. Then store it away until you need to sharpen once again.

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Every time you find that the stone is rather dry, add in some oil. You should never sharpen on a dry India stone. If you do, this will not only damage the stone but also the knife as well. That’s why make sure that your sharpening stone is always full of oil whenever you work on it.

One thing that I have from time to time are very dull blades. These are blades that have been neglected for so long, and they have completely lost their edge. My process for getting these blades back to top condition is a three-step process. I start with the hardest stones, such as carborundum stones. These get the blade to a decent sharpness very quickly. Then I move on to my India stones. These reduce the coarseness and give it a sharper edge. Finally, I finish it off with an Arkansas stone, which applies the finishing touches.

You can Check our Full Guide to Clean and Maintains Your Sharpening Stone and Sharpening Rod.

Conclusion

India stones are truly one of the best sharpening stones to have around. Being the middle ground, they can do everything that you need to be done on a knife. From sharpening to polishing, your India stone will get the job done very well.

That’s why despite having a lot of different knife sharpeners, the India stone will also be special to me. It is one of my most frequently used sharpening stones of the bunch. It is not only very effective, but it is also long-lasting and affordable. So if you’re looking for one sharpener to meet all your needs, the India sharpening stone is for you.

How To Clean And Maintains Your Ceramic Sharpening Rod: A Complete Guide


How To Clean And Maintains Your Ceramic Sharpening Rod

I believe every kitchen needs a good sharpening rod, particularly a ceramic one. With one of these around, sharpening knives will never be easier. Ceramic is a very hard material, and it can sharpen all your knives with ease.

Because they’re so hard, ceramic sharpening rods can last for a long, long time. But this does not mean that you don’t need to take care of them. It’s very important to clean your ceramic sharpening rod every once in a while.

When I first got my Ceramic Sharpening Rod, I didn’t bother to clean it at all. I quickly realized that this was a big mistake, and you will too if you follow me. Without any cleaning, my sharpening rod was full of steel residue. This not only dirtied my sharpening rod, but it also made it very inefficient. That’s when I knew that I had to do something about it. So I kept thinking How Can I clean my ceramic sharpening rod? 

The good news is that cleaning your ceramic sharpening rod is not a hard task at all. All you will need is some instructions and a few items. With these, you can be sure your ceramic sharpening rod will be spotless all the time. So what are these? Let’s find out!

What You Need To Clean Your Sharpening Rod?

To clean your ceramic sharpening rod, you need something that will remove the residue stuck on it. When you sharpen, steel bits get stuck on the tiny holes in the ceramic, and they are very hard to get rid of. This is why you need to loosen them first. 

What I like to use is honing oil. If you have a lot of knives, having honing oil around always comes in handy. You can use honing oil in a lot of ways, including the oiling of your oil stones. Honing oil can also penetrate small holes and loosen any debris. This is why it is perfect for cleaning your ceramic sharpening rod. 

Looking for a good honing oil? Check this out

Honing oil is easily my number one pick. But if you don’t have any, you don’t need to worry, there are several other options. One of them is dishwashing soap. We all have dishwashing soap around, so this is very convenient. However, dishwashing soap is not as effective or safe to use as honing oil.

What you will also need is something to scrub off the pieces of steel. Ideally, this should be something with some grit on it. You want some grit in there to scrub off the stuck pieces, but not too much that it will scratch the rod. 

What I use is an abrasive eraser Such as this one Here. This is the best thing to use as it will make your job a lot easier. If not, you can also use regular erasers. It won’t be as easy, but it still works. You can also use a sponge. The scouring side of your sponge is great for cleaning your ceramic sharpening rod.

Now that you have everything that you need, you’re now ready to clean your ceramic sharpening rod. How do you do this? Let’s take a look. 

How to Clean And Maintains Your Ceramic Sharpening Rod

Once you find a lot of debris stuck on your ceramic sharpening rod, it is time to clean it. Cleaning this is very easy. All there is to it is two simple steps: loosen and scrub.

Step 1: Loosen

The first thing you want to do is to loosen up the debris stuck on your ceramic sharpening rod. If you don’t do this, it will be very difficult to get rid of them. These steel bits are stuffed into tiny holes, that’s why it’s so hard.

This is why honing oil is your best option. Pour some honing oil on your ceramic sharpening rod and rub it in. The oil will penetrate these tiny holes and loosen the debris. Let the oil rest for a while, and it will bring out all these tiny steel bits. 

You can also use dishwashing soap and water, but this has some risks. Dishwashing soap also loosens the debris in the holes. And washing with water flushes the debris away. The risk here though is that water causes rust. That’s why if not all the steel debris are removed, it may get rusted instead. And if it rusts, this will destroy your sharpening rod. 

Step 2: Scrub

Oiling and wiping your ceramic sharpening rod should bring out all the debris, but not all of it. This is why you need to proceed to the second step: scrubbing!

This step is simple, all you need to do is take your abrasive eraser and start scrubbing. This will not only get rid of the loosened bits, but it will also remove the debris that the oil couldn’t get rid of. Give your rod a good scrubbing until it is completely clean. 

If you’re using a sponge, it may be a little more difficult to do this. Give it a thorough rubbing though and it should get rid of all the debris. It takes more work though, that’s why I prefer using abrasive erasers.

You also need to be careful that you don’t scratch your sharpening rod. Rub it just enough to remove the debris. If you rub it too hard, you could end up damaging your sharpening rod instead.

Conclusion

So you see, cleaning your sharpening rod is very easy. This simple task is one that goes a long way. You can prolong the lifespan of your ceramic sharpening rod a lot by doing this.

That’s why if you’ve never cleaned your ceramic sharpening rod yet, don’t be afraid to do so! I’m always nervous when I try something new. But I can assure you, this is not something to be afraid of in any way.

So get your honing oil and abrasive eraser and start cleaning Your Ceramic Rod!

What You Should Know About VG-10 Steel: A Complete Guide


When I first began collecting knives, I paid little attention to the type of steel I was getting. I was more interested in the different designs and functions of these knives. As I collected more and more knives though, I began to realize that there is a lot to learn about the steel of these blades.

One type of steel you need to know more about it VG-10. You might not realize this, but if you have a lot of cooking knives, you probably have a VG-10 blade in your collection. This is because VG-10 blades are one of the best and most common around. But what makes this type of steel so popular for knives? Let’s dive in and find out more about VG-10 blades.

What is VG-10 Steel?

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If you’re looking for a good knife, getting anything with VG-10 steel will be a good choice. VG-10 is considered to be one of the highest-quality steel for knives today. With a knife like this, you can enjoy a sharp and durable edge. You also don’t have to worry about rust with this blade, because it is highly rust-resistant.

Japan has a long history of producing some of the best swords and knives. It’s no surprise then that VG-10 was invented in the Land of the Rising Sun. Taking a look at Japanese cutlery, you’ll find that a lot of them are made using VG-10 steel.

The G’ in VG-10 stands for Gold’. Not that the blade is made from gold, but that it is gold-standard. What makes it gold standard? Most knives are either one of two things: carbon or stainless. Carbon knives are hard but get rusted fast. Stainless knives are rust-resistant, but not as hard or sharp as carbon knives. But somehow, the Japanese found a way to get the best of both worlds. VG-10 steel has the carbon and stainless components combined into one.

The secret quality of this steel lies in its components. At 1%, there is a lot of carbon on this steel. That may seem little, but compared to other stainless steels, that is more than most. This extra carbon makes the VG-10 a very sharp and hard knife. But not too hard that it’s brittle. The other components in this steel also make it flexible. So you have a knife that is both hard and flexible, the perfect combination.

Another component of VG-10 that stands out is the chromium. At 15%, this chromium is what gives the VG-10 its stainless steel capabilities. You don’t ever have to worry about your knife getting rusted because of this.

As a bonus, VG-10 is made in such a way that allows a lot of designs. One thing that I love are blades that have intricate carvings on their sides. These make the knife so much more beautiful. It’s one of the reasons why I love collecting VG-10 steel blades.

Now that we know what VG-10 steel is and its benefits, let’s take a look at some of its characteristics.

Is VG-10 Easy to Sharpen?

With all its qualities, you may believe that VG-10 is difficult to sharpen. It is, after all, very high-quality steel. But when it comes to sharpening, there is no difference between this gold-standard steel and others. So yes, VG-10 steel is very easy to sharpen; just sharpen it like you would any other knife.

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Chances are you’ve already sharpened a VG-10 steel knife without knowing it. You won’t know it because the procedure is exactly the same. Take a good sharpening stone, and set it down on an even surface. Then take your VG-10 steel knife and lay that flat on the stone. With two hands, tilt the blade until the bevel is flat on the stone. Then stroke slowly and gently against the stone.

After a few strokes, make sure to check for a burr. Once you feel that, you know that your knife is already sharp. VG-10 steel can get very sharp as well, so be careful. You want to handle them with utmost care. If not, it’s wise to use safety gloves to avoid cuts. These knives can cut you without you realizing it.

Once you’re done, your VG-10 is going to be razor-sharp. The best part about sharpening a knife with this blade is how long it lasts. VG-10 is not only very hard and sharp, it is also known to keep its edge for a long, long time.

After you finish the sharpening process don’t forget to clean your sharpening stone, you can check our 3 simple steps to clean your Sharpening stone.

Is VG-10 Steel Magnetic?

One thing that I love is the magnetic knife rack in my kitchen. If you don’t have one of these, they make the perfect place to keep your knives. That said, magnetic knife racks often run into problems with stainless steel knives. Most common stainless steel knives today are non-magnetic. This has to do with their high chromium content, and also the nickel that is sometimes added. They are non-magnetic therefor they won’t stick on your magnetic knife rack.

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But as we already saw, VG-10 isn’t the same as other stainless steel knives. And if you have a magnetic knife rack around, you may be wondering whether or not VG-10 steel is magnetic or not.

Based on my experience, VG-10 steel is a little magnetic, but not as much as other knives. My VG-10 steel knives stuck to my magnetic knife rack, but it was quite weak. It doesn’t stick as hard as other metals do. At times I felt like it might fall off on its own.

If you want to keep your VG-10 steel knives on a magnetic knife rack, it’s a good idea to get a second magnet. It’s not that VG-10 can’t stick to magnets, it’s just that it needs a strong magnet. That’s why if your magnet is weak, you can always add another one to strengthen it. And when you do, your VG-10 steel knives will stick to it like a rock.

By the way, here (Check it at Amazon) is my recommended VG-10 Knive that I personally use.

VG-10 vs VG-1 Steel

Now that you know what VG-10 steel is, it’s important not to confuse it with VG-1. These two look alike, and they have very similar names. But there is a difference between the two, and you don’t want to mess this up.

VG-1 is the predecessor of the VG-10. It’s no surprise then, that VG-10 steel is a lot better. The VG-10 is basically an improvement on the already good VG-1. Not only is VG-1 hard and sharp, but it can keep its edge for a long, long time. This is because of the high carbon content on this steel. Blades using VG-1 steel can keep their edges even longer than blades using VG-10 steel!

Compared with the VG-10, the VG-1 is a lot tougher. It is harder, but this also makes it more brittle. Finding a balance between hardness and flexibility has always been a huge challenge. The VG-1 tends to lean towards the hardness side of the scale. This is why when using this steel for knives, chipping is a common occurrence. It’s very hard, push it too hard it will snap right away. That’s one of the main improvements that came with the VG-10.

VG-1 steel is also not as stainless. One of the reasons why it can get so hard is because it doesn’t have as much chromium. And this chromium is what protects the knife from rust and stains. This is why VG-1 knives are always in danger of getting rusted. If you have one of these, you need to take good care of it to prevent this from happening.

Somewhat surprisingly, VG-1 steel blades are also more expensive. They don’t perform as well as VG-10, and you have to pay more for them! This is why practically, there’s no reason to choose VG-1 over VG-10. VG-10 is an improvement of the VG-1 anyway. But there are still some knife manufacturers who use VG-1.

This is why you should be careful when you are buying a new knife. You should know the difference between these two types of steel. This way, you can be sure that the knife you are getting has the best steel for you.

Summary

Knives use so many different types of steel. If you’re unaware of these, I really recommend you get into it. It’s all very exciting, just as exciting as learning about different types of knives. I was a non-believer at first, but once I started looking into it, I was hooked. Every type of steel has its own wonderful characteristics. And it’s so fulfilling to know what makes them different and what makes them special.

Now you know about VG-10 steel. It’s so common, but it’s so sad how little people know about it. If you already have a set of knives, go over them and see which ones use VG-10 steel. You may be surprised to find that you already have some of them.

If you don’t have any, you should get one. VG-10 steel is strong, high-quality, rust-resistant, and extra sharp. And if ever you are looking for a good blade, going for something that uses VG-10 steel is

Learn More About Knife Steel:-

How to Clean Knife Sharpening Stone? Step by Step Guide


To Clean Your Knife Sharpening Stone you have to follow 3 simple steps:

  1. Use Honing Oil to flush Away Embedded Metallic Fillings.
  2. Getting Rid of Oil Residue
  3. Flattening Your Sharpening Stone

In our homes, fast DIY hacks around some problems did save the day. One quick hack we’re going to talk about today is how to clean knife sharpening stone. We’ve all been frustrated by a blunt knife at some point in time.

You want to chop those veggies in your kitchen, but the blade won’t sink in, it can be tiresome. You might even get cut. A blunt knife should be a no-no in your kitchen. To keep your knife sharp, you most likely got yourself a sharpening stone.

With a sharpening stone, you should be able to keep that knife sharp and slicing through items such as meat and veggies fast. There are many types of knife sharpening stones are available; like diamond Stones, natural stones , carborundum stone and more.

In the diamond stone, micro-sized diamond pieces on its exterior will sharpen your blade, while in the natural stone, coarse and grits do the trick.

how to clean your sharpening stone

Whichever sharpening stone you choose to go with should work gloriously on your blade as long as you keep it clean: Sharpening stones can get dull too.

When metal fillings embed in the grits and coarse of the stone, your once glorious sharpening stone turns into a useless piece. And not just metal fillings, oil residues and dirt too can interfere with the course of the stone.

A blade sharpening stone could, therefore, do with some quick cleaning every after use. Stealing short moments in your tight schedule to clean your sharpening stone before storing it will be beneficial in the long run. Your stone will keep on working like a champ.

Therefore, if you are experiencing troubles with that sharping stone you bought a year ago, don’t cast it out just yet. A few DIY hacks should be able to bring the blade sharpening stone to its glorious ways: Here’s how.

Materials you’re going to Use to Clean Your Sharpening Stone

If you spot lustrous gray streaks on your blade sharpening stone, know this is an indication of debris build-up. The materials you are going to need for this cleaning activity depends on the type of stone and how you use it. Here’s a list of materials you should arm yourself with:

3 Simple Steps to Clean Your Sharpening Stone

1. Use Honing Oil To flush Away Embedded Metallic Fillings.

Honing oil is industrially used to dislodge and carry away embedded metal fillings from stone. Rub a ¼-size of the oil onto the stone and then using your finger or a toothbrush, massage the oil into the crevices in a circular motion until the metal filings rise from these stone pores.

Next, use a damp cloth to wipe away the metal filling. A paper towel could do the trick too. Jut wet the cloth or towel, wring it out, and then gently wipe the surface of your blade sharpening stone, leaving no metallic flecks behind.

Rinse the stone in high-pressure water for about 2 minutes so that the pressure of the water flashes away any tiny remaining metal filings. No soap is needed; just the warm water running at high pressure is enough to do the job. After that, wipe the stone dry.

You can also use the honing oil to lubricate the surfaces when sharpening your blade. Just apply a small amount of honing oil onto the stone surface before you begin to sharpen your knife. The honing oil does not only reduce friction but also keeps off those metallic flecks from sticking into the crevices.

Just make sure to place a towel underneath the stone during cleaning so that the metal flecks won’t make a mess on your table or flow.

2. Getting Rid of Oil Residue

Dirt and grime, too, in the sharpening stone pores interferes with its coarseness. Use WD-40 to give your blade sharpening stone a blitz. WD-40 is a specially-formulated kerosene-based solution perfect for getting rid of grime on any surface.

But make sure to use it in a well-ventilated space as it’s got a foul odor. Pump bottle WD-40 is better than the spray can WD-40 as it contains no fluorocarbons.

As an alternative, you can use opt to dilute hard oil residues in mineral oils. Mineral spirits work well, too, to loosen grime from abrasive surfaces.

To remove dirt and grime, start by coating the entire surface of the sharpening stone with the WD-40 spray then scrub with the steel wool.

Scrubbing should help with those hardened debris and adhesive oils by breaking them up into tiny particles that can be flushed away when rinsing. Therefore, scrub until you see the dirt and grime is loosened from the surface.

Next, rinse the stone in running warm water to wash away the grime then dry it using a soft cloth or paper towel.

3. Flattening Your Sharpening Stone

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So, which part of the stone do you use more?

Most people concentrate on the middle of the stone, and therefore after a few sharpening sessions, this part gets hollow. Flattening your stone to even out the surfaces is, therefore, necessary.

After how many sharpening sessions should you flatten out the stone?

It’s recommended that you even out the stone surfaces after every 10 uses, but you can do it as often as you wish too.

To flatten the stone, start by moistening the stone with water and oil then drag it back and forth over the flattening plate until you get an even surface.

Most sharpening stones come with a silicon-carbide flattening plate you can use to even out the stone surface as soon as the middle part starts to get hollow. But if your sharpening stone didn’t come with one, get it online or from your local hardware.

Alternatively, you can sand away the raised surfaces and any metal filings using sandpaper. Just stick 100-grit-wet-dry sandpaper onto a flat surface then rub the wet sharpening stone over the sandpaper surface several times until you get an even surface with no metallic flecks.

You can also sand away any grooves where metal fillings would otherwise accumulate.

There you go, clean that old blade sharpening stone back to its great ways with the above quick hacks!

What is a Carborundum Stone? (Complete Guide)


Carborundum stones are sharpening stones made from silicon carbide. This is a rigid material; it can sharpen every knife that you have. Taking a look at the Mohs scale, silicon carbide has a hardness score of 9-9.5. Now that is hard!

You may not realize it, but silicon carbide is all around us. Its hardness makes it a very useful material. Aside from sharpening stones, silicon carbide is also used in sandpaper, grinding wheels, and bulletproof vests!

How To Sharpen A Micro Serrated Knives 3

There are three kinds of sharpening stones: water stone, oil stones, and diamond stones. Carborundum stones are oil stones. This means that while sharpening, you’ll have to oil them now and then. You can use water on new carborundum stones, but once they are oiled, water will no longer be effective.

One advantage you can enjoy with oil stones is that they last so much longer than water stones. It’s no surprise since silicon carbide is such a hard material. Even if you sharpen a lot of knives, you can be sure your carborundum stone will stand strong. You won’t have to worry about it wearing down anytime soon.

What are Carborundum Stones Used For?

Now that you know what carborundum stones are, you might be wondering what they are for? What makes them different from other types of sharpening stones? What should you use them for?

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As said before, what sets this stone aside from others is how hard it is. It’s only 1 score away from diamonds in the Mohs scale, and diamonds are the hardest material you can get. That’s why unless you have a diamond knife, this will sharpen it with ease. All other knives, even hard types like ceramic knives, can be sharpened by carborundum stones. You never have to question whether it can get the job done.

Not only can they sharpen anything, but carborundum stones can sharpen anything fast. This is one of the things that I love about this sharpener. Compared to other types of oil stones, nothing sharpens quite as fast as silicon carbide.

If you have a dull blade, this is the best way to get it sharp in no time. That’s why when I get an old blade that can’t cut anything anymore, this is my stone of choice. It can go from blunt to razor-sharp with a few strokes. Restoring blades has never been so fast.

That said, carborundum stones are not the best for finishing. If you’re looking for a fine finish on your blade, other sharpeners will do better. This is because of how hard silicon carbide is. If you inspect your blade after using a carborundum stone, you’ll find that it’s a bit coarse. What I like to do is use my carborundum stone to get the sharpness I want, then use a finer stone for a smoother finish.

How to Sharpen a Knife with a Carborundum Stone?

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Being an oil stone, it’s very important to oil your carborundum stone before sharpening. This will make your sharpening experience a lot smoother and safer. Without oil, it’s very easy to damage your blade. Remember, silicon carbide is very hard, without a lubricant, your blade will be damaged.

One question I get a lot from new enthusiasts is what oil to use for sharpening. It may surprise you to find out that the answer is any oil. As long as it’s oil, you can use it to lubricate your carborundum stone. But just because you can use any oil, doesn’t mean you should. Some oils are better than others when it comes to sharpening.

Perhaps the best oil you can use is honing oil. Honing oil not only greases the stone well, but it also gets rid of metal debris. If you don’t have that around, what I like to use is mineral oil.

Mineral oil is great because it is a light oil with no strong odors. This is what you are generally looking for in sharpening oil. A lot of people reach out for the nearest oil they can get, which is often cooking oil. While this will work fine, it isn’t good for your carborundum stone. The problem with cooking oil is that it tends to harden up. If the oil hardens while on your stone, it will damage it.

You also want to avoid odors with scents. This is for obvious reasons. If you leave these oils on your carborundum stone, it will smell terrible. It won’t damage it in any way, but you’ll have to sharpen your knives with a mask. So stay away from oils that have odors.

Once your knife is oiled, all you have to do now is sharpen. There are different techniques for different knives, but it’s all generally the same. Hold flat of your knife against the face of the stone, and tilt it a little. The tilt angle will differ from knife to knife, but you should tilt it at the same angle of your bevel. This way, when you sharpen, you won’t scratch the flat of your blade.

Once that’s done, slowly rub your knife against the stone. Two hands on the knife and the stone on a flat surface is the best way to do this. I always tell people to sharpen slow and steady. Patience goes a long way in the world of sharpening. After a few strokes, make sure you check for a burr in your blade. Once you feel it, that side is done.

ou want to make sure your carborundum stone doesn’t dry out. Whenever your stone is getting dry, pour more oil on it. Also, if you find that there is a lot of debris on your carborundum stone, wipe it clean before continuing. Both of these will ensure a smooth process.

Check out one of the best Carbordum stone that we use Here

How to Clean a Carborundum Stone?

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Every time you are done using your carborundum stone, make sure to wipe it clean. Oil stones tend to get a lot dirtier than other sharpeners, so they need extra care. Wiping your carborundum stone after using will prolong its life a lot. So don’t forget to do this.

If you use your carborundum stone a lot, you will find that over time, it may start to lose its efficiency. Steel debris can get into the holes of the stone and clog it up. And a simple wipe of your carborundum stone won’t do much to remove these. So how do you clean an old carborundum stone?

If you have steel debris on your stone, sandpaper will do the trick. Sand your carborundum stone until the surface flattens out and the steel bits are gone. As with everything else, you want to do this slowly and gently. You don’t want to over-sand your stone.

If your stone is full of dirt and grime, what you need is penetrating oil. When you use penetrating oil, it will loosen up all the dirt and grime stuck in your stone. After spraying, give it a few minutes to soak up the oil. Once that’s done, take a piece of steel wool and rub it against the stone. This will get rid of any grime that is still in there. Finally, take a cloth and wipe your carborundum stone clean.

You can Check our Full Guide to Clean and Maintains Your Sharpening Stone and Sharpening Rod.

My Recommendation For The Best Carborundum Stone

Norton IM313 Knife Sharpener Oil Stone Sharpening Stone Kit with Coarse/Medium Crystolon and Fine India Stones, Sharpening Stone Oil and Knife Angle Guide
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Last update on 2025-11-14 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Summary

A lot of people don’t think a lot about the sharpening stones they use. They use it to sharpen and ignore it the rest of the time. They never learn about or appreciate the fact that sharpening stones have a world of their own.

Choosing a sharpening stone and taking care of it is like taking care of knives in a lot of ways. And it is something that is just as enjoyable. That’s why you should pay more attention to the sharpening stones you have around you. If you have a carborundum stone, make sure it’s clean and efficient at all times. This way, the task of sharpening all your knives will be a lot better and easier!

How to Sharpen a Micro-Serrated Knives in 3 Simple Steps


We all love smooth, sharp knives. The kinds of knives that, when you slice meat, it glides right through. But when it comes to tougher materials, you’ll need a little more bite from your knife.

That’s why I keep several micro-serrated knives around. Micro-serrated knives aren’t my favorite, but they are incredibly useful. I’ll admit that I often don’t give them the credit they deserve. They’re the perfect balance between smooth and jagged blades. If you have a micro-serrated knife, you know what I’m talking about.

Micro-serrated knives are sometimes marketed as knives that “never need sharpening”. If you know anything about knives, you know that this isn’t true. All knives need sharpening.

The problem with micro-serrated knives is that you can’t sharpen them like you usually would. There’s a particular way to do this, which I’ll show you today.

What are Micro-Serrated Knives?

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Micro-serrated knives aren’t a specific type of knife, such as ceramic knives. They are any knife that has micro-serrations on its blade.

Take a look at the edge of your blade. If you see some small jaggedness on it, you have a micro-serrated knife. Keep in mind that this is not the same as a normal serrated knife.

Ordinary serrated knives have a deep sawtooth edge that you will notice right away. You’ll need a closer look to see this on micro-serrated knives.

But not too close. These knives are not the same as scratched blades. If you sharpen your smooth knives improperly, you will get some tiny chips on the edge. This will make it unevenly jagged and quite terrible to use. If this happens, you should consider throwing your knife away.

The small jaggedness of micro-serrated blades is not an accident, it was designed this way. This is why their points are evenly spaced. As I said, they’re the middle ground between smooth and jagged knives. This design gives them advantages that other knives don’t have.

Advantages of Micro-Serrated Knives

Micro-serrated knives combine the sharpness of a smooth knife and the bite of a jagged knife. This gives you a blade that is useful for just about anything.

Have you ever tried cutting bread with a smooth knife? No matter how sharp the knife is, it won’t do a good job. Without any bite, there’s no way a smooth blade can grip and rip the fibrous bread.

This is why if even if you swing your knife back and forth, it’ll only press the bread down. This is why you want to use a knife with some teeth. These knives can tear through bread and other fibrous materials with ease.

How To Sharpen A Micro Serrated Knives 2

On the flip side, have you ever tried cutting steak with the jagged end of a hunting knife? This is another classic example of knife misuse. You’ll not only have a very hard time doing this, but you’ll also destroy the food.

You can never get those appetizing slices if you use a serrated knife. Since meat is more flexible, you’ll want a razor-sharp edge. This way, your knife will sink right into the meat.

Micro-serrated knives give you the best of both worlds. They have enough bite to tear fibers. But they also have enough sharpness to slice through meats without destroying it.

This is why no matter what you need a knife for, your micro-serrated knife will come in handy. They can deal with everything from rope to jello.

Another great thing about micro-serrated knives is that they come in all shapes and sizes. Again, micro-serrated knives aren’t a specific type of knife. This way you can enjoy micro-serrated blades on small or big knives.

Disadvantages of Micro-Serrated Knives

Have you ever heard the phrase, “Jack of all trades, master of none”? This phrase applies quite well to micro-serrated knives. Even though they are both sharp and jagged, they aren’t the best at either one. For most tasks, there is another knife that is better suited than a micro-serrated one.

Another disadvantage of micro-serrated knives is the chance of chipping. This is something that you’ll have to be careful of for all serrated knives, micro or regular. But micro-serrated knives are worse off.

Their jagged tips are often very small and thin, making them prone to breaking. This is why it is very important to always keep them sharp. A dull micro-serrated knife will chip all over the place.

Which brings us to our main problem: sharpening.

The Sharpening Problem

Over the years, knife sharpening has become more of a joy than a necessity to me. I love the subtleties of the technique on how to sharpen different types of knives. Sharpening a micro-serrated knife, while not actually difficult, requires proper method.

The problem with micro-serrated knives is that you can just run the blade through a sharpening stone like a smooth knife. If you do that, you’ll destroy the scallops on the edge, and your knife will lose its jaggedness. There’s also a risk of chipping if you do it this way.

The first time I ever sharpened a serrated knife, my biggest question was, “how do I sharpen this without smoothening it out?” It can seem like a pretty daunting task. But in reality, it’s a lot easier than you may expect. Let me show you how.

How to Sharpen a Micro-Serrated Knife

You can use a variety of different tools to sharpen your micro-serrated knife. My personal favorite is a sharpening rod. I find it very easy to sharpen my micro-serrated knives when I use a ceramic sharpening rod (or anything harder than steel).

You can also opt for sharpening stones, electrical sharpeners, or anything else. Just keep these 3 simple steps in mind:

Step 1: Find the Bevel Side

Most, if not all, micro-serrated knives are single beveled. This means that on the edge, one side is completely flat, while the other slants (making the edge sharp). It’s not like double-beveled knives that have a v-shaped edge.

Knowing which side has the bevel is very important. The scallops that form the teeth of the knife are on that side. That’s the side you want to avoid sharpening.

Step 2: Sharpen

Once you know which side the bevel is on, you can then proceed to sharpen. Make sure you sharpen the side opposite of the bevel – the flat side. This way, you won’t smoothen the jagged tips of your blade.

To do this, place your knife flat on the surface of your sharpener. Since you are working on the side with no bevel, you want to sharpen at the tightest angle you can. So add a tiny tilt just to avoid scratching the body of your knife.

Then lightly rub your knife against the sharpener. I always say don’t put a lot of pressure when sharpening knives. When it comes to micro-serrated knives, I can’t stress this enough.

If you press hard into the sharpener, one of the jagged tips may get caught and snap. And just like that, you ruin your knife. This is why you need to be extra gentle when sharpening a micro-serrated knife.

Step 3: Test and Polish

Test and Polish Micro-Serrated Knives

Whenever you’re sharpening a knife, a good way to know if it’s done is by feeling for a burr. You’ll find this on the opposite side of what you’re sharpening. So in micro-serrated knives, feel for the burr on the bevel side.

Once you feel that, it’s time to polish. You can simply wipe your knife clean, but I like to take an extra step to remove the burr. Unlike ordinary knives, you can’t remove the burr by sharpening the other side. You already know that if you sharpen the bevel side, this will ruin your micro-serrated blade.

So instead, I do this by using cardboard. I lay my blade on the cardboard, tilting on the bevel side. I apply just enough pressure so that the entire surface of the bevel, including the scallops, sink into the cardboard. Then I lightly drag this along the cardboard to remove the burr.

Tips for Sharpening Micro-Serrated Knives

As always, here’s my cheat sheet when it comes to sharpening micro-serrated knives:

  • Find the bevel side
  • Work on the flat side
  • Use a sharpening material that is harder than steel if you can
  • Keep the angle as tight as you can. Tilt just enough to avoid scratching the body of the knife
  • Use light and gentle strokes to sharpen
  • Wear safety gloves to avoid cuts
  • Always feel for burr to know when it is sharp
  • Remove the burr by rubbing it on cardboard
  • Use the paper test to check the sharpness
  • Wipe your knife after sharpening.

My Recommendation For The Best Micro-Serrated Knife Sharpener

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Last update on 2025-11-15 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

Summary

Yes, you will have to sharpen your micro-serrated knife once in a while. Even though they’re advertised as forever sharp, they will go dull soon. And even if they can still cut, you may be damaging your blade if you use it unsharpened.

But sharpening these blades is a lot easier than it might seem at first. With these simple steps and tips, you won’t run into any problems at all.

Sources to Learn More About  Micro-Serrated Knife Blade: